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Sep 8, 2021
I kinda loved this thing. Felt way more fun/engaging than the 10s on the left side of sonar with a little b… View Comment
Sep 8, 2021
Mega classic. The best of the grade I've been on at Charleston. No real gimmicks, just delicate but exhaust… View Comment
May 25, 2021
Rock is fine. This thing is actually really good and every inch 12a. Found it more difficult than Cop Kille… View Comment
Mar 24, 2021
Luckily, the gear needed to actually enjoy the upper section of this route is very similar to that you need… View Comment
Mar 10, 2021
A full 60m will not get you to the ground. Route is closer to 115' and quite good. View Comment
Sep 30, 2020
I agree with Zachary. Maybe some of the filled holds were scooped back out? ;) Kept expecting a 5.12 crux a… View Comment
Jun 22, 2020
The climbing on this thing was actually really good. I ended up using the undercling to a right-handed pink… View Comment
Jul 10, 2019
This is one of the best routes I've done at Mt. Charleston. The top freaked me out but ended up being quite… View Comment
Apr 18, 2018
I disagree with O'Conner. Never trust cheater stones when the consequence is to fall and pull your belayer… View Comment
Dec 5, 2017
Some beta on the last two pitches and the walk-off through Oak Creek. Pitch 8: The 5.9+ version of p7. S… View Comment
Apr 13, 2016
This thing is honestly really good. Once the dust gets knocked off, it will be great. The movement is uniqu… View Comment
Feb 5, 2016
Yes, back this thing up with a locker, but, I'll trust beefy steel over double aluminum any day of the week… View Comment
Nov 2, 2015
Skip the first draw (6 ft off the ground), back-clean the second, extend the last 4 on the slab (I back-cle… View Comment
Jul 22, 2015
I personally think this is a great route. Although it is short, the only real knock from me is that the thi… View Comment
Dec 4, 2014
Loose flake towards the top came off today with little effort. Now the top is a little less sketchy. View Comment
Nov 9, 2014
Hey Luke, There seems to be a bit of a redundancy. Is Staff synonymous with Man on a Wire? If so, then it… View Comment
Nov 9, 2014
I think this will be a really good 12a/b with some more traffic and a bunch of cleaning in the upper sectio… View Comment
Oct 20, 2014
Layne, if I remember correctly, I think a fall in many parts of the upper section (albeit unlikely) would p… View Comment
Oct 7, 2014
Now has bolts and its own anchor. 5.9 at least and will be pretty a decent climb once the crumbles get knoc… View Comment
May 8, 2014
This would be a great shot to show the descent from BV Peak. View Comment
Nov 28, 2013
Leaving the car without a headlamp is a bad idea. Unless you enjoy adding an extra two hours to your decent… View Comment
Nov 18, 2013
I heard that this problem doesn't get any love in the guidebook. That would be a shame. Be competent at the… View Comment
Sep 19, 2013
Take this comment for what it's worth to you, maybe nothing. The route is fun, but, if you are going for th… View Comment
Aug 19, 2013
This area has a massive amount of unclimbed (or undocumented) pitches. The wall across from the beach only… View Comment
Aug 19, 2013
There is a very tall left-facing hand/fist crack almost directly above the beach, center. You can see it ve… View Comment
Jul 23, 2013
Wilson the photo is a bit deceiving. The rope is traveling next to another line that is just to the left of… View Comment
Jun 2, 2013
I was a bit thrown off by the useful kneebars when I read the description to Irregular Arete, so I assumed… View Comment
May 26, 2013
vimeo.com/67018019 View Comment
May 26, 2013
The stump is gone now and at 6' tall it was quite the task just to reach the starting holds, but it still g… View Comment
Apr 30, 2013
First time at Blue Sky this last weekend. I found the routes that I climbed very sustained, which is great.… View Comment
Apr 29, 2013
This entire route was a lot of fun. Find the hidden gem at the start or skip it and huck yourself to the le… View Comment
Oct 25, 2012
ah, I was referring to more stars. the line is plenty clean. View Comment
Oct 16, 2012
Is there any place in Lead, Deadwood, or Sturgis that sells the Spearfish Canyon guidebook? I'll be drivin… View Comment
Jul 8, 2012
This route needs more traffic. Definitely one of the best climbs in the area in my opinion. Great positiv… View Comment
May 26, 2012
It seems like there have been a lot of climbing additions to the park in the past few years. Is there any… View Comment
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