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Areas in Saint George

Beaver Dam Road 0 / 45 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 45
Black Rocks 11 / 54 / 14 / 15 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 83
Bloomington Cliffs 2 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Bluff Street Cracks 8 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 8
Central Crag 0 / 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5
Chuckawalla Wall 0 / 31 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 31
Coral Canyon Ridge 0 / 9 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 9
Cougar Cliffs 0 / 15 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 15
Cove Wash 2 / 15 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 17
Crawdad Canyon / Veyo 0 / 95 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 95
Garth Rocks 1 / 21 / 4 / 158 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 181
Green Valley Gap 11 / 32 / 14 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 54
Hurricave 0 / 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5
Kayenta 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Lambs Knoll 4 / 31 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 37
Moe's Valley 0 / 0 / 0 / 160 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 160
Padre canyon 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Pine Valley 11 / 39 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 50
Pioneer Park 0 / 4 / 5 / 53 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 61
Prophesy Wall 6 / 27 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 33
Red Cliffs Reserve 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0
Shotgun Alley 6 / 36 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 42
Snow Canyon State Park 27 / 40 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 59
Turtle Wall 0 / 19 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 19
Underworld 8 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 8
Utah Hills 0 / 145 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 145
Welcome Springs 0 / 52 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 52
Zen Wall 4 / 20 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 24

Description

In and around the city of Saint George various small crags exist. This sunny, southwest corner of the state boasts a little of everything, which I have only sampled, but am writing up here to get the ball rolling.

The crags are mostly good, but slightly soft sandstone, sporting crimpers, slopers, pockets and nice corners and a splitter here and there. There are also limestone crags to the south and to the west. There are walls facing in every given direction which can get sun or shade at various times of day, depending on which crag you are at.

Crags such as Chuckawalla Wall, Turtle Wall and Prophesy Wall are almost exclusively sport climbs which may remind climbers of the popular sport areas at Red Rock, NV. Bluff Street Cracks is noted for corners and cracks more reminiscent of Indian Creek. Cougar Cliffs, Black Rocks, Green Valley Gap are mostly sport with a few trad lines of note as well. Snow Canyon State Park has a good mixture of sport and trad.

Limestone areas include the Woodbury Road Crags, Utah Hills Crags, and the Virgin River Gorge.

The town of Saint George has plenty of services and hotels as well as nearby 'improved camping' at Snow Canyon State Park or free camping just outside town on BLM land. With the exception of Snow Canyon State Park and Crawdad Canyon the St. George crags are free access. While there may be relatively few classic lines on these cliffs compared to Zion, Red Rocks or the like, there are plenty of good routes in the area which could provide several days of climbing fun.

Getting There

The directions for each individual crag will be more telling, but the journey to each starts near St. George Ave (I-15 Exit 8) or Bluff Street (I-15 Exit 6) in Saint George. The area is littered with cliffs, canyons, and crags.

1,242 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Saint George

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V5 6C
 87
Huntsman Graffiti
Boulder
V6 7A
 111
Israil
Boulder
V6 7A
 74
Pink Lady
Boulder
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 93
Leopard Skin
Trad, Sport 4 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 126
Sticky Revelations
Sport 3 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 75
Deface Crack
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 128
Living On The Edge
Trad 4 pitches
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 75
The Roofs of Jericho
Sport 2 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 168
Director of Humor Affairs
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 137
As the Crows Fly
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 80
Worshipping The Limestone Gods
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 76
Pinching Bird Shit
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 127
Banana Dance
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 160
Second Coming
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 69
Speaking In Tongues
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Huntsman Graffiti Moe's Valley > Sentinal Area > Sentinal Boulder
 87
V5 6C Boulder
Israil Moe's Valley > South-W End/Pink Lady…
 111
V6 7A Boulder
Pink Lady Moe's Valley > South-W End/Pink Lady…
 74
V6 7A Boulder
Leopard Skin Snow Canyon SP > Island In The Sky > Sand Dunes
 93
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, Sport 4 pitches
Sticky Revelations Prophesy Wall
 126
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport 3 pitches
Deface Crack Bluff Street Cracks
 75
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Living On The Edge Snow Canyon SP > Island In The Sky > Aftershock Wall
 128
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad 4 pitches
The Roofs of Jericho Prophesy Wall
 75
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport 2 pitches
Director of Humor Affairs Turtle Wall
 168
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
As the Crows Fly Chuckawalla Wall
 137
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Worshipping The Limestone Gods Welcome Springs > Cathedral
 80
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Pinching Bird Shit Turtle Wall
 76
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Banana Dance Turtle Wall
 127
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Second Coming Chuckawalla Wall
 160
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Speaking In Tongues Welcome Springs > Cathedral
 69
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
More Classic Climbs in Saint George »

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J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
Just a quick comeback on Clays spray.I fully agree on the quality of stone and routes at the VRG.It must be noted though,if you do not climb 5.12 and your into the whole wilderness experience don't waste your time.

There are some crags within an hour of the VRG that have nice stone/routes/views but in the end its still just sport climbing. (not that there is anything wrong with that) Apr 5, 2005
DB Cee
Chattanooga, TN
DB Cee   Chattanooga, TN
The VRG's cool and all...but come on...there are far more beautiful and quiet zones in the Utah hills with HARD routes to boot.

With that being said...everyone should visit:

El Amate in St George. Family owned/operated authentic mexican food. Gorgeous presentation of the food, cheaply priced and they give you free desert at the end of the meal. Located on Sunset near the Albertsons. Go support these guys! Apr 5, 2010
steve edwards
SLC, UT
steve edwards   SLC, UT
Seconding the El Amate comment. I eat pretty much every meal here when I'm in St George. It's just plain ridiculous that this place hasn't caught on with climbers because it's cheap and outstanding in an area with a serious dearth of Mexican food that isn't just cheap beans and rice drapped in cheese. My friend who runs a taqueria blog in California claims it's as good as almost anywhere he's been. I've pimped this to a lot of locals and have gotten comments back like "when we're on that side of town we like to eat at Bajios". WTF?!!!!

Admittedly, their lack of beer is a problem (they claim to be trying to rectify this). May 3, 2010
Ernestos, right across the street from El Amate, has beer and killer food! Don't let the strip mall appearances fool you. Apr 9, 2011
Marius vanderMerwe
Saint George, UT
Marius vanderMerwe   Saint George, UT
This introduction and description of the St. George area crags is in need of an update. The comments about the area lacking in true classics or not being a climbing destination is at best a minority opinion or at worst a complete misrepresentation. In fact, very few areas in the world can compete with the variety (limestone, sandstone, basalt, tufa and conglomerate) and quality (especially the limestone) of rock and climbs available in the St. George area. Add the proximity of Zion's big walls and SW Utah becomes a climber's paradise. Apr 25, 2011
I agree that the description should be rewritten. The area is/has become a destination climbing area with more than a few classic routes. Apr 26, 2011
calvino
Marblemount, WA
calvino   Marblemount, WA
Heads up.

I had my car broken into at Chuckawalla Wall in St. George Yesterday 20/28/11. My trad rack was stolen as well as a red Rab shell, and a brown OR puffy with Zion Adventure Company Embroidered on it. My girlfriend had her luggage stolen with her purse, all her clothing, jewelry, bike gear, sleeping bag, etc.

It never feels good to be violated in this way, and I want to offer a warning to be careful at some of these trailheads.

I am posting a list of what was stolen separately, but if anyone sees this equipment turn up please contact me. All my gear has purple duct tape, or purple paint on it. Oct 29, 2011
jtwalter
Orem, UT
jtwalter   Orem, UT
Sad news: Looks like El Amate is now closed. Went there on 2011-12-10 and looked like it was being renovated for a new business. Dec 15, 2011
steve edwards
SLC, UT
steve edwards   SLC, UT
El Amate is, indeed, closed. As is Scaldoni's and the weird coffe/music house back off Dixie Dr and the cool upscale coffee house in Santa Clara that were all outstanding. As thus, this trip to St. George has been a eating nightmare. "Like food you'd get in prison" is how one restauranteer put it about the kind of crap that gets served in most American small towns. St. George is one of the worst offenders and, I suppose, they deserve it since every time something decent opens up it goes under in a few years, no matter how stellar reviews on it are. Every restaurant I've been in this week has been packed and 100% God-"we can't even give this to the dogs"--awful. Exception is Xatava in the Kayenta housing development, which was very good and not crowded at all, meaning it's probably going to bite the dust soon as well. What the hell is wrong with these people? I guess this is why every time I ask a local climber for a recommendation the answer is the same "I stopped eating in restaurants when I moved here." Jan 1, 2012
Evan C  
There's no mention of seasons... What time of year does it typically get warm enough to enjoy climbing? Jan 31, 2013
Andrew Gram
Salt Lake City, UT
Andrew Gram   Salt Lake City, UT  
It is generally warm enough all winter at the sunny crags. Feb 1, 2013
Eric Montandon
Orem, Ut
Eric Montandon   Orem, Ut
Dose anyone have directions to get to the BLM land it mentions in the description? Feb 12, 2013
grk10vq    
The BLM land suggested is the Curly Hollow Road area in Bloomington. This is about 6 miles away from Moes, closer than Prophesy, and just west of town. If you are familiar with the Bearclaw Poppy mnt. bike trail, it ends at Navaho Drive in Bloomington. If you were to continue on that gravel road, northwest, you come to wide open desert that is appropriate for dispersed camping for up to 14 days. Feb 12, 2013
Branden Michelkamp
Salt Lake City
Branden Michelkamp   Salt Lake City
I have a question for a local folk with good area understanding.

I am an AMGA SPI guide and I will be spending a day or two in St. George, I have an interview. I have a friend coming with me who is fairly inexperienced but athletic. I would like to get him on a 5.6-5.7 route around 3 or more pitches, any suggestions?

Thank you,
Branden Michelkamp Mar 15, 2013
Where do Saint George locals climb in the summer? Feb 15, 2014
B Roth
st george, ut
B Roth   st george, ut
For the most part they climb at all the places that they climb at in the winter - just at different times of the day. Some places are a bad idea to visit in the summer like the underworld or zen wall because they have such a short shade window. Feb 26, 2014
James Wieman
Southern Utah
James Wieman   Southern Utah
Does anyone know who set the bolts for the highline slackline at the green valley gap? I am interested in doing it and could use some advice on the subject.

James Wieman
(815) 670-6972
jwieman@live.com Apr 13, 2014
Austin Harris
Rifle CO
Austin Harris   Rifle CO
FREE CAMPING- several sites right by the parking lot of the Prophecy Wall cuz this is BLM land. obviously no bathrooms or water here tho.

FREE SHOWERS- fitness center at Dixie state University just north of football field in St. George. 225 South 700 E. (S University Ave.) 435-652-7989

COFFEE HOUSE- Perks Espresso in St. George has couches and free wi-fi. 1515 W Sunset Blvd. 435-628-8413. they have a few locations around St. G

The Prophecy Wall has a ton of great moderate, 1-3 pitch sport routes, and some trad. Apr 25, 2014
Austin Harris
Rifle CO
Austin Harris   Rifle CO
The campsites near the prophecy wall were not too trashed a few days ago. We bagged out a bunch of cigarette butts and broken glass today tho. I know climbers are better than to leave trash in the campsites or crags, but it would help a lot if we each bagged some trash out when we come. Lets keep this awesome crag in great shape! May 2, 2014
Is there any climbing near Sand Hallow Reservoir? I don't know if that what's it's called, my wife's friends family has a house down there and I am wondering if there is any climbing near that place? Or looking for kid friendly climbs? Thanks. Oct 18, 2014
Contrary to Steve Edwards, I thought the food in Saint George, like in most American small towns, was excellent. If this is prison food, lock me away! On our recent trip through we were particularly impressed by Ernestos Mexican Restaurant on W Sunset. Excellent food, cheap prices, and pleasant staff. Highly recommend it when you're in town. Nov 24, 2014
Logan Bradford
American Fork, UT
Logan Bradford   American Fork, UT
Three questions:
1. Has anyone scouted out Leeds Canyon for climbable rock? I did some preliminary scouting and most of the rock was super brittle, but that was only one area that I checked out.

2. Along those same lines, does anyone know of a road going from Leeds to Pine Valley area? By the looks of it on Google Maps, the forest roads on both sides end before summitting the mountain.

3. Anyone have beta on the bolted routes in Red Cliffs Reserve? Location? Rating? Potential for more development? Dec 30, 2014
Anyone got recommendations for a central dispersed camping site that will allow first-timers to St. George area to hit the high points in the 5.9 - 5.11- range trad/sport?

Thinking of maybe hitting snow canyon, prophecy wall, other recs appreciated... we'll have 4 days.

Arriving around 3/17/15.

Thanks! Mar 11, 2015
Ken Soo  
Yo! I'm looking for a climbing partner for Nov 21-24th. I lead somewhere around the 5.11s, will be my first time in UT and would like to do some sport. My e-mail is klsoo0213@gmail.com, thanks! Nov 10, 2015
Morgan S
Richfield, UT
Morgan S   Richfield, UT
I'm in St George for the weekend. Anybody got a crash pad they'd let me rent from them for a couple hours? We could come up with some sort of collateral Mar 25, 2016
Jerimiah Gentry
Denver, CO
Jerimiah Gentry   Denver, CO
hello everyone just a quick question regarding cell service. I'll be visiting the st. George area and awaiting a job interview phone call. I want to be able to go climbing yet still reliably receive this important call. Any thoughts on areas with good climbing and reliable cell service? Thank you very much! Apr 1, 2016
John Ehrig
Saint George, UT
John Ehrig   Saint George, UT
Hi Sunset Alley Climbers,

I left my Grigri at Sunset Alley on Monday May 9. If you happened to be climbing on Tuesday or Wednesday (I went out on Wednesday night to try to recover it but it was gone) and picked it up and would be kind enough to return it to return it to me, please text at 925 216 1552 or email at jmehrig@gmail.com.

Thank You!

Quick Update - HUGE THANKS to Jim and Taylor for safely returning my GriGri and once again proving that climbers are some of the best people out there! May 12, 2016
Jimmy Keithley
Salt Lake City, UT
Jimmy Keithley   Salt Lake City, UT
Hi every one!

I lost my left new Instinct Lace at either Sunset Alley or Moes over the Holiday weekend. Please keep an eye out for it. We climbed all over Moes and mainly at Hop Gardens.
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Greetings!! Mediocre Colorado climber heading down to the St. George area

for a few weeks. Just putting my name out there to see if anyone is

interested in linking up to climb? How busy is the are this time of the year? Feb 4, 2017
Does anyone know of a good place to get free water around St. George, i.e. fill up a few 5 gallon jugs? Feb 28, 2017
Nick H  
Hey, does anyone know if there is a guidebook that includes La Verkin overlook? Is the climbing good quality? Ie What type of rock, good routes, route length. Struggling to find beta. Dec 17, 2017
Evan Valencia
Boulder, CO
Evan Valencia   Boulder, CO
Anyone know anything about dispersed camping in Utah Hills? Mar 15, 2018

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