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Areas in Moe's Valley

Backhoe 0 / 0 / 0 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Big boy Area 0 / 0 / 0 / 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5
Device Ignitor Boulder 0 / 0 / 0 / 7 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 7
Jabberwock Boulder 0 / 0 / 0 / 7 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 7
Mario Land 0 / 0 / 0 / 18 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 18
Monkey Boy Area 0 / 0 / 0 / 20 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 20
Padded Room Area, The 0 / 0 / 0 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Sentinal Area 0 / 0 / 0 / 28 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 28
South End 0 / 0 / 0 / 14 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 14
South-West End/Pink Lady Area 0 / 0 / 0 / 9 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 9
Tee Pee Area 0 / 0 / 0 / 23 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 23
Elevation: 2,724 ft
GPS: 37.069, -113.623 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 106,175 total, 854/month
Shared By: Louis Eubank on Sep 19, 2007
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

Description

Nice bouldering area to the west of the St. George airport. It's now easier to get to, and you don't need high clearance anymore, so lots more people are coming out. Definatly recommended as a nice change of pace from St. George area climbing, ir as a stop off (it's within 15 minutes from I-15).
The area is continually being developed, so any new problems would be appreciated.

Local color tends to have poor ethics when it comes to properly disposing their trash. Please help keep Moe's Valley clean by bringing in a garbage bag and carry out whatever cans, bottles or garbage you can find.

Promote and Practice - Leave no Trace.
Sensitive Area Details

Getting There

It's kinda convoluted.

If you follow the directions in A Bouldering Guide to Utah or Rock Climbs of Southwest Utah & The Arizona Strip, Second Edition, you'll definitely get to the valley, but you'll also need 4WD and high clearance.

Due to suburban sprawl there's an easier way, and one that low-clearance 2WD can use:

  • Travel on I-15 (north or south) and get off at Exit 6 (Bluff St.).
  • Turn north on Bluff St.
  • At the first light, turn left...
  • ...then immediately left again onto Hilton Dr. You will pass a bunch of car dealerships in a minute.
  • Continue on Hilton Dr. (which curves to the right and becomes Dixie Dr.) until 600 W street on the left.
  • Turn left onto 600 W.
  • Turn right onto Tonaquint Dr.
  • Turn right on Curly Hollow Drive (after turning onto Tonaquint it is the third street on the right, and heads past Tonaquint Middle School). Shortly past the school the pavement ends.
  • Head up the hill on the dirt road.
  • Bear right at the fork.

You should see Moe's Valley ahead of you (power lines cross the entrance to the valley).
Park in either parking lot (there's usually vehicles in both). Like I said, kinda convoluted.

Mapquest makes things a little clearer for the paved roads, but they don't have anything for the dirt road.

137 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Moe's Valley

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V3 6A
Hermione
Boulder
V3 6A
Device Ignitor Right
Boulder
V3 6A
Takin' It to the Ground
Boulder
V4 6B
Underboy
Boulder
V5 6C
Device Ignitor Middle
Boulder
V5 6C
Huntsman Graffiti
Boulder
V6- 7A
UnderWhelmed
Boulder
V6 7A
Israil
Boulder
V6 7A
Divice Ignitor Left
Boulder
V6 7A
Shot Hole
Boulder
V6 7A
Spectro
Boulder
V6 7A
Pink Lady
Boulder
V7 7A+
The Swan
Boulder
V8 7B
Israil Direct
Boulder
V9 7C
Gription
Boulder
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Hermione Tee Pee Area > Tee Pee Boulder V3 6A Boulder
Device Ignitor Right Device Ignitor Boulder V3 6A Boulder
Takin' It to the Ground Sentinal Area > Pack Rat Boulder V3 6A Boulder
Underboy Monkey Boy Area V4 6B Boulder
Device Ignitor Middle Device Ignitor Boulder V5 6C Boulder
Huntsman Graffiti Sentinal Area > Sentinal Boulder V5 6C Boulder
UnderWhelmed S End V6- 7A Boulder
Israil S End V6 7A Boulder
Divice Ignitor Left Device Ignitor Boulder V6 7A Boulder
Shot Hole Sentinal Area > Shot Hole Boulder V6 7A Boulder
Spectro South-W End/Pink Lady Area V6 7A Boulder
Pink Lady South-W End/Pink Lady Area V6 7A Boulder
The Swan South-W End/Pink Lady Area V7 7A+ Boulder
Israil Direct S End V8 7B Boulder
Gription Monkey Boy Area V9 7C Boulder
More Classic Climbs in Moe's Valley »

Weather Averages

High
 
Low
 
Precip
 
Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
Elijah Luna
Portland, OR
Elijah Luna   Portland, OR
hey, how is the concentration of boulders in Moe's valley? could I spend a full day in one spot and have plenty of boulders or is it spread out a bit? is does a popular area for winter time that I could find new friends and climbing buddies? What is the beta on camping? 7 days ago
Joe Zelman
Cedar City, UT
Joe Zelman   Cedar City, UT
Found a Nalgene with yellow webbing handle secured with duck tape at Moe's Valley lower main parking on Saturday, November 11. Msg me if it's yours because I'd be happy to get it back to ya. I'm in Cedar City. Nov 13, 2017
Chris Altura
Montreal
Chris Altura   Montreal
Hello,

Anyone know a place where i can rent some crashpads so i can boulder in Moe's Valley?

Thanks! Jun 14, 2017
Just tried to get to Moe's Valley via the directions listed here, and I could not seem to find the area.

Am I missing a crucial direction? Do I need someone to guide me to the boulders?

The direction I had the most trouble with was regarding which was which road to take after crossing onto the dirt road, and when to bear right.

Any help is welcome, thanks! Jun 10, 2017
Sharp End Publishing has the new St. George bouldering book at the printer. You can order now and get a free 2-year subscription to the Digital Edition.
stores.sharpendbooks.com/st… Mar 15, 2017
Julius Grisette
Carbondale
Julius Grisette   Carbondale
This place is awesome. Police everywhere and the lack of toilet felt strange. Feb 19, 2017
Creed A
Salt Lake City, UT
Creed A   Salt Lake City, UT
Following up on Todd's comments ... What nearby areas are appropriate for camping? Jan 30, 2017
Any updates about the guide book? Jul 14, 2016
Sking  
Somebody broke a hold on the highly trafficked 'one eyed willie' which isn't unheard of on sandstone. What concerns a local such as myself is I was here on 10 March and the hold was there and now on 13 March it isn't. Guess what happened 11 March? Oh yeah, it was raining. So I have to conclude that somebody, namely a very smart person, was climbing the day it rained or the day after.

If you're not from around here let me lay it out for you. You don't climb on sand stone while it's raining. You don't climb on sand stone the day after it rains. You have to give it at least 24 hot hours to dry or else you ruin problems. Luckily, the problem still goes and I think it maintains it's original grade, but nobody should be climbing on anything in the greater St. George area after a rain. Mar 13, 2016
Christian Prellwitz
Telluride, CO
Christian Prellwitz   Telluride, CO
Is there a guidebook to Moe's available currently? Jan 24, 2016
dlasley  
Hey y'all, we are putting together a new guidebook for Moe's and some surrounding areas, and we are hoping to release it this fall. if you have have established any new problems and you want them in the book, please send me a message and I'll do my best to make sure it gets published. Jun 11, 2015
Does anyone know how to get to the Super Mario Land Area? It isn't in the guide book. Mar 18, 2015
BobGray
Salt Lake City, Utah
BobGray   Salt Lake City, Utah
Some footage of a trip to Moe's several years ago.

vimeo.com/21792464 May 12, 2014
I lost a pair of Scarpa Veloces and a red chalk bag in Moe's. If found please email me at dmari_11@hotmail.com or call the climbing shop at (435) 628-7277.

Thank you! Apr 22, 2013
Kowhai  
Lost my camera at the first parking lot at Moe's yesterday 1/21/13 at about 3:30pm. It is a Panasonic Lumix, silver in a red and black case. Lots of memories on it so I'd love to get it back. Email kowhai81@yahoo.com Jan 22, 2013
grk10vq    
help maintain access:

Each year more people in the climbing community discover the great winter bouldering of Moe’s Valley in St. George Utah. This area is fast becoming a premiere winter destination for an ever growing number of road trippers, weekenders, and climbers interested in trading deep snow drifts for warm desert stone. What most visitors (and admittedly many locals) do not know is that Moe’s Valley is owned by a state trust organization known as SITLA.

The State Institutional Trust Lands Administration (SITLA) was created when the Utah territory was granted statehood. SITLA was given millions of acres of federal land around the state and tasked with using those lands to generate revenue for the public school system. SITLA does this through oil and gas leasing, mineral and resource extraction or land sales for development.

Most locals in this part of the state just assume that if it doesn't have houses on it then it must be owned by the BLM. We made just that assumption when the potential of Moe’s valley was being re-discovered in early 2001. Upon the realization that the entire basin could become a housing development, we formed the Southern Utah Climbers Coalition (yes it spells SUCC) as a means of representing the interests of the local community, and opened a dialog with SITLA.

4 years, and many meetings later Moe’s valley and the Bloomington mesa will be annexed into the city of st. George and maintained as open space for the many forms of recreation that take place out there. With mountain biking on the Zen Trail, sport climbing on the Zen wall, myriad hiking trails as well as some of the best bouldering around, this formation offers outdoor enthusiasts a diverse and convenient venue for the pursuit of our various passions.

The process of approaching a landowner, developing a relationship, and explaining the value that an area or activity has to a community, and then working through solutions that are good for all of the interested parties has been extremely instructive and rewarding. SITLA actually hired a mediator to work through some of the issues and give an even handed point of view. This kind of process could very well be a template to other areas with similar issues.

I am not taking the time to write this just to pat ourselves on the back, but to explain how we have come to our present point, and to sound a note of concern.

As the popularity of Moe’s has increased, so has the number of people camping out at the parking area, driving up the wash to the Sentinel, or around the saddle to the TP boulders and upper basin. There is a fire pit at every major concentration of boulders, litter around the boulders, and tire tracks just about any where you could possibly drive a pickup, SUV or ATV. We are suggesting to the climbing/bouldering community that this is an unacceptable and unnecessary impact to an area that we have worked hard to protect. The hike from the end of the road to the furthest boulder can’t be more than 15 minutes. Of course when you have to bring in firewood that is a long way, so why not, like- not have a fire. The fire rings create the impression that camping at the base of the boulders is acceptable, it isn't. It is worth remembering that these kinds of behaviors were undoubtedly among some of the reasons for the closing of Hueco tanks, and the Black Velvet camping in Red Rocks. It makes our community look bad in the eyes of the landowners, land managers and other users of the area.

We are beginning the process of working with the BLM to identify appropriate areas that are close enough to Moe’s valley and appropriate for the kind of camping that someone on a road trip would do (fire pit, dogs, cathole ect…) In the meantime, if everyone who visits Moe’s would take some of this advice to heart and pass the word it would help our cause, and improve our image with people who’s opinion of our community standards really does matter.


Todd Goss
St. George Utah Feb 25, 2011
mattjbudd
West Valley, UT
mattjbudd   West Valley, UT
Here's a sample of Moe's Valley.

Device Ignitor Left V6

youtube.com/watch?v=fIBPwna… Feb 2, 2011
wude72  
Moe's Valley Bouldering Guide Book

markhorclimbing.com/product… Sep 1, 2010

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