All Locations > Utah > Southwest Utah > Saint George > Snow Canyon SP > Island In The Sky

Sand Dunes Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in Sand Dunes

L › R R › L A › Z

	A Little Nightmare Music T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Battle of Wills T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
	Clairvoyance S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Collaborative Conquest T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
	Fragments from Floyd S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Gratitude S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Heroes Get Remembered S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Jimmy Durante S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
	Kibosch Buttress T,S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Leopard Skin T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Leopard's Tail T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
	Little Miss Demeanor S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Mack's Rush T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
	Prestidigitator T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Sandy Jean S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Stepping Out T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Stranger Than Friction S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Thousand Pints of Lite S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Twist and Shout S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
	What's New Pussycat? S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Will's Rush T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

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Elevation:	3,275 ft	998 m
GPS:	37.19133, -113.64333 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	216,027 total · 838/month
Shared By:	Guy H. on Oct 27, 2004 · Updates
Admins:	Fallon Rowe, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: PRECIPITATION AND WET ROCK Details

The sandstone here is easily damaged when wet. Please allow at least 24-48 hours before climbing after any precipitation. If the ground is at all damp, please do not climb on any local sandstone. Consider nearby options on basalt, limestone, granite, or plastic instead.

Description

This area is home to a large number of routes from the 5.6 to 5.11b range. A large number of these routes are 2-5 pitches in length. A single 60M rope can be used to descend most routes. The multipitch routes start on the second tier, which is gained by the obvious gully (4th class) just to the left of the Indian Wall.

Here are a few of the best climbs: Clairvoyance 5.11b, Stepping Out 5.9, Leopard Skin 5.7.

Getting There

This area is directly across from the handicap parking pullout for the sand dunes. Park in the large parking lot (with bathrooms) and hike south on the road for 200ft until you are directly across from the gully.

Approach Beta from Bob Pringle:

The excellent and often used Todd Goss climbing guide book directs parties to take the paved bike path to access this climbing area from the large west canyon parking lot. Many visiting climbers are getting confused and have been found wandering about in the Enclosure area. The advice in the book of walking south 100 yards before turning east across a wash to the access the scree slope/gulley is correct but the pavement to walk along is the main road, not the bike path.

Additional Approach Beta:

Best place to park is the pullout/parking area 400m South of the parking area mentioned above. Then you are directly opposite the Sand Dunes gully.

21 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Sand Dunes

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b 255 ● Leopard Skin Trad, Sport 4 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b 51 ● Thousand Pints of Lite Sport 3 pitches
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c 31 ● Twist and Shout Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c 4 ● A Little Nightmare Music Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 26 ● Stepping Out Trad, Sport 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 145 ● Heroes Get Remembered Sport 5 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a 70 ● What's New Pussycat? Sport 2 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a 15 ● Prestidigitator Trad 5 pitches
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a 83 ● Gratitude Sport 4 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c 8 ● Sandy Jean Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c 11 ● Clairvoyance Sport