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Routes in Sand Dunes

Clairvoyance S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Fragments of Floyd S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Gratitude S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Jimmy Durante S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Kibosch Buttress T,S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Leopard Skin T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Leopard's Tail T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Little Miss Demeanor S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mack's Rush T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Stepping Out T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Stranger Than Friction S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Thousand Pints of Lite S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Twist and Shout S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
What's New Pussycat? S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Will's Rush T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Type: Trad, 290 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 224 total, 27/month
Shared By: Eliot Padzensky on Mar 21, 2017
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Description

First route in Snow Canyon. Hike to top of boulder field to start route. First pitch runs along ramp to Intersection Ledge (Start of Thousand Pints of Light) - 180 ft. Second pitch is friction slab to left of chimney - 110 ft.

Thousand Pints of Light begins at top of first pitch.

With single 60m rope, you can descend in 3 repels. From top, repel to chains about a fourth of the way up pitch 2. Next repel to chains in chimney to right (facing wall) of belay ledge at top of pitch 1. Finally repel to ground.

Location

Top of large boulder field

Protection

Medium pro. You can use bushes for pro on first pitch. Anchor is 2 pins on ledge. 4 pins on second pitch. Top has chain anchor.

Photos

First pitch is excellent and well protected, and it would be a great pitch for first trad leads/follows. Second pitch likely has lost some varnished holds over the years and even the start is a few grades harder than the first pitch. Climb past the obvious midway rappel station just left of the drainage/seam referred to as a "chimney" in the description, passing two additional antique pins.

Rappelled in 4 pitches with single 60M rope down Battle of Wills (chimney just south/below Intersection Ledge). Jun 13, 2017