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Routes in Sand Dunes

Clairvoyance S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Fragments of Floyd S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Gratitude S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Jimmy Durante S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Kibosch Buttress T,S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Leopard Skin T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Leopard's Tail T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Little Miss Demeanor S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Mack's Rush T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Stepping Out T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Stranger Than Friction S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Thousand Pints of Lite S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Twist and Shout S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
What's New Pussycat? S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Will's Rush T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
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Type: Trad, 290 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,133 total · 74/month
Shared By: Eliot Padzensky on Mar 21, 2017
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route

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Description [Suggest Change]

First route in Snow Canyon. Hike to top of boulder field to start route. First pitch runs along ramp to Intersection Ledge (Start of Thousand Pints of Light) - 180 ft. Second pitch is friction slab to left of chimney - 110 ft.

Thousand Pints of Light begins at top of first pitch.

With single 60m rope, you can descend in 3 repels. From top, repel to chains about a fourth of the way up pitch 2. Next repel to chains in chimney to right (facing wall) of belay ledge at top of pitch 1. Finally repel to ground.

Location [Suggest Change]

Top of large boulder field

Protection [Suggest Change]

Medium pro. You can use bushes for pro on first pitch. Anchor is 2 pins on ledge. 4 pins on second pitch. Top has chain anchor.


First pitch is excellent and well protected, and it would be a great pitch for first trad leads/follows. Second pitch likely has lost some varnished holds over the years and even the start is a few grades harder than the first pitch. Climb past the obvious midway rappel station just left of the drainage/seam referred to as a "chimney" in the description, passing two additional antique pins.

Rappelled in 4 pitches with single 60M rope down Battle of Wills (chimney just south/below Intersection Ledge). Jun 13, 2017

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