Type: Trad, Sport, 160 ft (48 m), 2 pitches
FA: R. Olevsky
Page Views: 4,296 total · 27/month
Shared By: triznuty on Nov 30, 2009 · Updates
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane

You & This Route


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Access Issue: PRECIPITATION AND WET ROCK Details

Description

The route was originally done in 4 pitches, but the pitches are short. Pitch 1 is trad from fingers to hands, Pitches 2-4 are slab climbing protected by drilled pitons (DPs). The pitches can be combined in various enjoyable combinations including 1&2, 3&4; 1, 2-4; or just combine all four into one long route to top out on the ledge at the top of pitch 4.

Protecting the first move above the fixed piton at the start of pitch 1, then "Stepping Out" to start into fingers then hands to kick off the route is the crux and the business.  Not chill like the song ;^D 

P1: Thin crack with a cruxy bulge to start. Protects well with small to medium gear. Also has 1 DP at the start.

P2: Step out onto the arete and follow five DPs to another set of chains. Quality slab climbing! Look down every once in a while to take in the views...

P3: Slopey slab on sandstone climbing past another six DPs to chains.

P4: A single DP protects a few moves to the two-pin anchor atop the ledge.

Rap off the southside of the ledge down in the chimney. 2 raps with a 70 m get you on back down.

Location

Tier 2 of Island in the Sky: SAND DUNES AREA. Same approach as to Leopard Skin or Gratitude.

Protection

1 DP and medium to small gear for the first pitch. And then 10+ DP's for pitch 2.

Photos