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Routes in Sand Dunes

Clairvoyance S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Fragments of Floyd S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Gratitude S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Jimmy Durante S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Kibosch Buttress T,S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Leopard Skin T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Leopard's Tail T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Little Miss Demeanor S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mack's Rush T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Stepping Out T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Stranger Than Friction S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Thousand Pints of Lite S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Twist and Shout S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
What's New Pussycat? S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Will's Rush T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Type: Sport, 350 ft, 4 pitches
FA: Goss and Howard
Page Views: 4,515 total, 28/month
Shared By: Guy H. on Oct 16, 2004
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


30 Opinions

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Description

This is the bolted route that shares the starting pitch of Leopard Skin 5.7. The line of new bolts can be seen from the ground.

P1 Start with Leopard Skin in a right-facing dihedral. Clip the first 2-3 pins and break left when the shiny bolts appear. (5.8) Follow the bolts to a traverse under the roof. The moves to the anchor and great belay ledge, are about 5.10a/b. (120 feet.)

P2 Follow more closely spaced bolts up the face to another belay. (5.8, 70 feet.)

P3 Work up a slab with one small runout (compared to the rest of the route) to a headwall with a crack. Crank through the headwall on the left or right. (5.9, 80 feet.)

P4 Easy juggy face to the top. (5.6, 80 feet.)

Descent: Rap 4 times with a single 60M. The last rap ends on a ledge with a 5.2 downclimb.

Protection

Light rack to 1" for the shared part of Leopard Skin; bolts after that...

Photos

jason taro
Seattle, WA
jason taro   Seattle, WA
Getting down:
If you don't rappel the route - some climbers recommended not doing so to avoid rope snag, well then the rap stations are a bit hard to find (in the dark at least... oops).
Once at the top of Gratitude, drop down into the gully and go climbers right until you get to a dihedral. First rap station is fairly obvious but avoid rappelling down the face. The second does not go down the face, it continues climbers right in the dihedral. The rappels are not stacked, once you hit a ledge, you can get off rappel and scramble down slap, keeping climbers right, look down into the chimney, you'll find the next rap station (thankfully it shined from the light on my headlamp). Finding the third rap station... again come to a ledge and look far climbers right. The hard part is over. You should be home safe. May 25, 2017
Carol Smucker
Spokane, WA
  5.10b
Carol Smucker   Spokane, WA
  5.10b
Very fun. Pitches 1 & 3 are the money pitches. Take a few trad pieces to protect the first pitch: a medium and small cam will do the trick. TAKE 6-8 ALPINE DRAWS TO REDUCE SIGNIFICANT ROPE DRAG! We rapped down with one 70-meter rope. If you have a 60-meter, use the additional rap rings about 20 feet below the first anchor and do an extra rap, or you will have to down climb the ramp at the start. Jake Nelson's comments of Mar. 26, 2013 are spot on, except that I would rate pitch 1 at 5.10b for anyone under 5'6" because of two moves. It is not a sustained 5.10b and the rest of the route is as Jake suggests, more of a 5.10a. Mid-February, wall is in the sun starting about 11:30 a.m. We did not find any white bolts and just did the same start as Leopard Skin. Highly recommended climb, loads of fun! Feb 20, 2016
Hyrum j. C
St george, ut
 
Hyrum j. C   St george, ut
 
I ran pitches 2 and 3 together when i did this one. Which i wouldn't recommend cause of the drag it causes. I think pitches one and 2 could be ran together and pitches 3 and 4 could be run together. As long as you bring slings to reduce rope drag that should be fine. Dec 30, 2015
Rob Warden...Space Lizard
Between Zion, Vegas, LA, an…
Rob Warden...Space Lizard   Between Zion, Vegas, LA, an…
Maybe I am just thick, but I don't understand how this route can share the first 2 bolts with Leopard Spot/Skin(?)and be 100ft to the right of it. I thought it was a fantastic route. I brought and would bring again mostly 60cm draws, a 70m was great for linking pitches and you can back clean some of your draws.

Can someone explain how you actually get on Leopard spot?

Also... painting the bolts with a rattle can on the wall without a backing was lazy and looks ugly. I do a lot of bolt replacement all over, and I was very irritated by this. I understand that this is preferable to the ire of the park officials from shinning steel. However ether buy powder coated, get them powder coated (western Powder coating in STG lets you heap it in with their other stuff.) Or do a 2 part epoxy with primer Before you place them.

Dec 20, 2015
Stan Pitcher
SLC, UT
  5.10a
Stan Pitcher   SLC, UT
  5.10a
The current guide says clip the first 2 pins on Leopard Skin to start pitch 1. The pins have been replaced by bolts. They should be clipped long to avoid rope drag at the crux which is at the end of this long pitch. I used a .5 camalot between those first two bolts and was glad to have it. Nov 24, 2014
Jake Nelson
  5.10a PG13
Jake Nelson  
  5.10a PG13
Awesome, fun, well exposed face route, but I would say the rating is a bit high (5.10a would be more accurate I believe). This is a very well protected sport route, there was one runnout on the entire route! Very fun climbing.

I'd like to clear up a few issues w/ the route description in the local guidebooks:

Pitch 1: Clip the first 3 bolts for "Leopard Skin" then follow them straight up to a well protected traverse under a nice belay ledge. 12 bolts (not 10) to a 2 bolt anchor. 120' (not 100', bring a 70m rope) 5.10a

Pitch 2: Varnish crimps to a 3 bolt belay (not 2) 70' 5.7

Pitch 3: work up a sloper filled bowl with one runnoutish section to a gradually steeper face full of well protected crimp climbing to a 3 bolt belay "The Super Bowl" 5.10a

Pitch 4: easy climbing to the top, on big varnish jugs 5.8

Descent: either rap the route, or with some creativity scramble over to the top anchors for "Leopard Skin" (visible from the top-out) and descend via rappel down the gully/chimney to climber's right. You'll need a 70m rope for this, but it's a fun alternative to rapping the route, especially if other climbers are waiting.

Hope this helped, enjoy and be safe! Mar 26, 2013
Ben Bradford
Goodrich, Michigan
Ben Bradford   Goodrich, Michigan
Fun route. The new first pitch is chossy and several holds broke off. The new first pitch ends on a great belay ledge. A worthwhile climb. Mar 6, 2012
SMH Climber
Midvale, UT
SMH Climber   Midvale, UT
I was in this area on 10/22/11 and I did locate the bolts that traverse from the start of leapord skin to grattitude. I would clip the first pin and then fallow the flake up and left to the black bolts and first set of anchors. there is an optional direct start to grattatude about 100 feet to the left of lepord skin with bolts starting from the ground. Nov 3, 2011
SMH Climber
Midvale, UT
SMH Climber   Midvale, UT
Pitch 1 actually has bolts all the way to the ground and starts about 100 feet to the left of leapord skin Bolts are White. I did not see a line that connects the first pitch of leapord skin to Gratitude. Nov 15, 2010
triznuty
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10a
triznuty   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10a
Quality climbing with great views. But if Living on the Edge is .10c, then this is not. Still a great outing! Nov 29, 2009