Elevation: 3,165 ft
GPS: 37.18, -113.645 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 349,281 total · 1,726/month
Shared By: Tony B on Dec 2, 2003 with improvements by Robert Pringle and 1 other
Admins: Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Andrew Gram

Description

Snow Canyon State Park is in the area of the city of Saint George, perhaps an hour from the heart of Zion National Park.

This large state park boasts a little of everything, from short sport clip-ups to mixed multi-pitch routes or even long, infrequently traveled adventure climbs. I have only sampled the area, but am writing it up here to get the ball rolling. The crags are sandstone, some reminiscent of the good stuff at Red Rock, NV, some resembling the softer formations of Zion National Park, and some fit for climbing by only the truest of desert rats.

No matter if you are chasing sun or shade, or wanting crimpers, slopers, pockets, or an occasional crack there are climbs of various flavors facing in any given direction at any given time of day, depending on which crag you are at. The Island In The Sky area sports the Aftershock Wall, Circus Wall, The Doghouse, and other walls with good sport and mixed climbs. The West Canyon area has adventure routes and much adventure potential for those looking for trouble and in possession of an emergency bolt kit. The nearby town of Saint George has plenty of services and hotels as well as nearby 'improved camping' at Snow Canyon State Park ($20 in addition to a $10 daily entry fee) or free camping just outside town on BLM land.

The following guidebooks contain more details on the area and the park: Rock Climbs of Southwest Utah & The Arizona Strip, Second Edition; Rock Climbing Utah; and an article in Climbing magazine #225 (article by Tim Kemple).

Getting There

The directions for each individual crag will be more telling, but to reach the state Park entrance, exit I-15 on the Bluff Street (I-15 Exit 6) in Saint George. Go north a few miles to the Snow Canyon Parkway, then left on that for 6 miles to Highway 8, then right (north) on that for ~3 miles into the park. Maps are available for the park at the entry kiosk where they will collect your $5 entry fee.

I kid you not, these directions are listed under the 'season' section of the Goss guidebook.

61 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Snow Canyon State Park

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 89
Pygmy Alien
Trad, Sport 2 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 135
Leopard Skin
Trad, Sport 4 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 32
Thousand Pints of Lite
Sport 3 pitches
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 30
Just Desserts
Trad 3 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 48
Uncle Reamus
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 70
Roar of the Greasepaint
Sport 2 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 37
What's New Pussycat?
Sport 2 pitches
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 50
Gratitude
Sport 4 pitches
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 161
Living On The Edge
Trad 4 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 75
Atomic Indian
Trad
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
 21
Aftershock
Trad, Sport 4 pitches
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 48
The Doghouse Arete
Sport
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 11
Legends Never Die
Sport 4 pitches
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 43
The Richness of It All
Sport 4 pitches
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 18
Meaty Bone
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Pygmy Alien Island In The Sky > Circus Wall
 89
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, Sport 2 pitches
Leopard Skin Island In The Sky > Sand Dunes
 135
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, Sport 4 pitches
Thousand Pints of Lite Island In The Sky > Sand Dunes
 32
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport 3 pitches
Just Desserts Island In The Sky > Circus Wall
 30
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 3 pitches
Uncle Reamus Enclosure
 48
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Roar of the Greasepaint Island In The Sky > Circus Wall
 70
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport 2 pitches
What's New Pussycat? Island In The Sky > Sand Dunes
 37
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport 2 pitches
Gratitude Island In The Sky > Sand Dunes
 50
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport 4 pitches
Living On The Edge Island In The Sky > Aftershock Wall
 161
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad 4 pitches
Atomic Indian Enclosure
 75
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Aftershock Island In The Sky > Aftershock Wall
 21
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 Trad, Sport 4 pitches
The Doghouse Arete Island In The Sky > Doghouse
 48
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Legends Never Die Island In The Sky > Aftershock Wall
 11
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Sport 4 pitches
The Richness of It All Island In The Sky > War Zone
 43
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport 4 pitches
Meaty Bone Island In The Sky > Doghouse
 18
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
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