Elevation: 3,165 ft
GPS: 37.18, -113.645 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 468,427 total · 2,179/month
Shared By: Tony B on Dec 2, 2003 · Updates
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane
Access Issue: PRECIPITATION AND WET ROCK Details

Description

Snow Canyon State Park is in the area of the city of Saint George, perhaps an hour from the heart of Zion National Park.

This large state park boasts a little of everything, from short sport clip-ups to mixed multi-pitch routes or even long, infrequently traveled adventure climbs. I have only sampled the area, but am writing it up here to get the ball rolling. The crags are sandstone, some reminiscent of the good stuff at Red Rock, NV, some resembling the softer formations of Zion National Park, and some fit for climbing by only the truest of desert rats.

No matter if you are chasing sun or shade, or wanting crimpers, slopers, pockets, or an occasional crack there are climbs of various flavors facing in any given direction at any given time of day, depending on which crag you are at. The Island In The Sky area sports the Aftershock Wall, Circus Wall, The Doghouse, and other walls with good sport and mixed climbs. The West Canyon area has adventure routes and much adventure potential for those looking for trouble and in possession of an emergency bolt kit. The nearby town of Saint George has plenty of services and hotels as well as nearby 'improved camping' at Snow Canyon State Park ($20 in addition to a $10 daily entry fee) or free camping just outside town on BLM land.

The sandstone here is easily damaged when wet. Please allow at least 24-48 hours before climbing after any precipitation. If the ground is at all damp, please do not climb on any local sandstone. Consider nearby options on basalt, limestone, granite, or plastic instead.

The following guidebooks contain more details on the area and the park: Rock Climbs of Southwest Utah & The Arizona Strip, Second Edition; Rock Climbing Utah; and an article in Climbing magazine #225 (article by Tim Kemple).

Getting There

From I-15 Southbound:
Take exit 10 (Washington). Turn right on 100N (St. George Blvd) and take an immediate right onto 1000 E then Left onto Red Hills Pkwy. After ~5 mi come to the intersection with Bluff Street/ SR-18. Proceed straight through the light onto Snow Canyon Parkway for approximately 3.5 miles before turning right onto Snow Canyon Drive. Follow this road to the south entrance of the park.

From I-15 Northbound:
Take exit 6 (Bluff Street). Go north on Bluff Street to the intersection with Snow Canyon Parkway. Turn left onto Snow Canyon Parkway and proceed approximately 3.5 miles and turn right onto Snow Canyon Drive. Follow this road to the south entrance of the park.

1002 N. Snow Canyon RdIvins, UT 84738

Maps are available for the park at the entry kiosk where they will collect your entry fee.

63 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Snow Canyon State Park

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 35
Thousand Pints of Lite
Sport 3 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 162
Leopard Skin
Trad, Sport 4 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 38
Just Desserts
Trad 3 pitches
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 97
Pygmy Alien
Trad, Sport 2 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 59
Uncle Reamus
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 48
Handful of Crack, Fistful of Poc…
Trad 2 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 73
Roar of the Greasepaint
Sport 2 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 36
Raindance
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 46
What's New Pussycat?
Sport 2 pitches
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 52
Gratitude
Sport 4 pitches
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 179
Living On The Edge
Trad 4 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 92
Atomic Indian
Trad
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
 23
Aftershock
Trad, Sport 4 pitches
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 54
The Doghouse Arete
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 54
The Richness of It All
Sport 4 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Thousand Pints of Lite Island In The Sky > Sand Dunes
 35
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport 3 pitches
Leopard Skin Island In The Sky > Sand Dunes
 162
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, Sport 4 pitches
Just Desserts Island In The Sky > Circus Wall
 38
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 3 pitches
Pygmy Alien Island In The Sky > Circus Wall
 97
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, Sport 2 pitches
Uncle Reamus Enclosure
 59
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Handful of Crack, Fistful o… Island In The Sky > Indian Wall
 48
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 2 pitches
Roar of the Greasepaint Island In The Sky > Circus Wall
 73
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport 2 pitches
Raindance Island In The Sky > Indian Wall
 36
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
What's New Pussycat? Island In The Sky > Sand Dunes
 46
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport 2 pitches
Gratitude Island In The Sky > Sand Dunes
 52
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport 4 pitches
Living On The Edge Island In The Sky > Aftershock Wall
 179
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad 4 pitches
Atomic Indian Enclosure
 92
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Aftershock Island In The Sky > Aftershock Wall
 23
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 Trad, Sport 4 pitches
The Doghouse Arete Island In The Sky > Doghouse
 54
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
The Richness of It All Island In The Sky > War Zone
 54
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport 4 pitches
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