Avg: 3.4 from 16 votes
|Type:||Trad, Sport, 450 ft, 4 pitches|
|FA:||Visser, Beck, Harding|
|Page Views:||2,635 total, 24/month|
|Shared By:||Guy H. on Nov 4, 2008|
|Admins:||Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq|
DescriptionThis varied route is a must do for the area. Most climbers only sample the first two or three pitches, which have some classic varnished face climbing.
P1: Heady friction leads to the right and a well protected 5.10a mantle. Another funky 5.10 move leads to the LF dihedral above. A green alien is helpful in this section. A short easy runout leads to chains.
P2: A short runout leads to the first of many bolts angling up and right. The height dependent crux (5.10c/d) is at the last bolt. The 3rd to last bolt directs the rope into a crack under a flake, so a long sling may be helpful. Belay in a hole similiar to the one on Pygmy Alien. An airy pitch...
P3: Wild moves lead out of the cave to the left. 6 bolts protect these heady moves up the varnished slab to a two bolt anchor. (5.11a)
P4: Follow the varnished crack to the top of the wall. The crux is finger size, but the crack widens higher up. Plan on walking off the top.
It is possible to descend from the top of P3 with a single rope. An off route anchor is located below the P2 anchors, which is located on a blank wall.