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Routes in West Canyon

Falcon, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b X
Fool's paradise S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Prudence T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Swan Song S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
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Shared By: Tony B on Dec 3, 2003
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq
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Description

The West Canyon has several formations, but none seem to have individual names. This rock contains a lot of climbing potential, but only a few documented routes which I could find, Babes in Thailand and The Cheese Stands Alone. I apparently selected the lesser of these to climb (B.I.T.) and based on my experience, this wall is an 'adventure' destination, not a pleasant destination.

BE WARNED.

This wall lies on the East face of a 1000'+ formation in West Canyon. Although the Route Faces east, both of the climbs are in close proximity to a NE corner buttress and are not sunny, at least not on Thanksgiving day. If attempting these routes, keep in mind that route-finding is a certain requisite skill, and that this is advneture climbing. The book I have (Goss) poorly describes the sections of routes that I am certian I did find and appears to be in error in several places, including what anchors are or are not present. If you try to follow my descriptions, those of others, or those in the book, you may not find the same path in all treat all information as a description of an individual experience up there and not as a prediction of your own.

If you don't take an emergency bolt kit, you might be very sorry. If you don't take a full 'desert rack' (including wide gear) you are going to run it out. Take spare webbing or cord to replace age-old ancors. Take 2 ropes and wear a helmet. Check your holds... and then dodge the loose rocks that fall past. This wall is full-value desert rat climbing. You are NOT in Indian Creek - you are not even in Zion.

If you do take a bolt kit (I did not) you may be faced with a moral delemma about retro-bolting all while wandering if you are really even on the route anyway!

The descent alone is an adventure (esp in the dark). It will involve some raps, some down climbing, some bad rock and certainly fighting some hateful cacti, shrubs, and desert oak.

Getting There

Park at the West Canyon day use area and walk North on a 'closed' road for as far as necessary to reach your target climb. More specific directions should be given for each route, as they are some great distance apart.

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