The Journey From the Future
5.12 YDS 7b+ French 27 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 26 ZA E6 6b British
| Type: | Trad, 115 ft (35 m) |
| GPS: | 37.1844, -113.6399 |
| FA: | Rob Robinson |
| Page Views: | 1,670 total · 13/month |
| Shared By: | Levi Call on Dec 26, 2014 · Updates |
| Admins: | Fallon Rowe, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher |
Description
This crack offers sizes all the way from fingers to offwidth and has an awesome overhanging fist/OW section. It goes up a southward facing feature which is located south of all publicly documented routes in Snow Canyon.
Two expansion bolts were installed in December of '14 and the old webbing on the pitons was removed with only a solid tug. The route was temporarily renamed “Abyss” for its history of almost falling into the abyss of being forgotten. In an article from a 1987 edition of the AAC, Ron Olevsky seems to claim that R. Robinson freed the route at 12b. A 1994 guidebook by Matt Kindred & Todd Goss says that no free ascent of the route was ever made in its entirety.
Regardless, the thought of using hexes and big bro’s to climb an overhanging 4’s crack puts this climb in the category of futuristic by the standards of 1986.
No longer being the test piece that it once was, the route has been freed clean as one pitch since its original ascent.
Location
37.18284, -113.63943
There is no trail to this climb. Tred lightly.
Take the Johnson Canyon Trail (located just outside the south entrance of the park) until you hit the big obvious wash. Go left (north) and walk in the wash for a few minutes until you see a tributary wash on the right. Take that wash and you will see the obvious, overhanging face with the crack going up the middle of it.
Protection
Helmets. Some loose rock may still exist.
A 70 meter rope minimum.
If you only have a 60 meter you can use the first set of chains as an anchor and do it as two pitches.
Single set Camalots from .3 to 1, three 2's four 3's, and five or six #4's, depending comfort level on fists/wide fists. A couple slings help prevent drag and a draw if you want to clip the mid-way anchors.
There should be two prema-biners at the top.



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