Deviated Septum

climbed this today and felt a little more info could be helpful. I felt this route was a little deceptive. the crack itself is quite a flaring crack. It has good hand jams, but they are quite deep into the crack past the flare and hard to reach. i spent alot of time either jamming a whole arm or leg in the flare(offwidth style) or was half in the crack and one leg on the left face(found this to be the easiest way). This route, because of the flare, takes big gear only. we only has one #4. But we could have easily placed more. Take as many 3s, 4s, and 5s as you feel needed to protect this length of route, those are the only three sizes that place. The roof protects amazing with a 3. ended up running it out quite a bit just so i had pieces to protect up high. the route is also pretty sandy. i don't think it gets climbed much. I thought it was a blast, but would have enjoyed it a whole lot more had i had more big gear Jan 17, 2013