Type: Sport, 300 ft, 4 pitches
FA: Mark Engibous, Rich Hurd, and Todd Goss
Page Views: 2,394 total · 40/month
Shared By: MarkEngibous on Mar 10, 2014
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route

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Todd Goss' guide book calls this a route to nowhere as there were about 5 drilled angles with no anchors. It is located between the routes Living on the Edge and Aftershock on the Aftershock Wall. I replaced the drilled angles on pitch 1, added some bolts, and placed chain anchors. I also added 3 more pitches to take this route to the top. Pitch one has some manufactured holds in the seam/shallow right facing corner from the Olevsky era which render it climbable. Not to dissuade you, this pitch is good and still plenty challenging. The pitches are as follows:

P1: 5.11d, 80 ft - Short slab section to right facing flake which becomes a seam in a shallow right facing corner. Layback to a mantle gaining the chains.
P2: 5.11c, 85 ft - Step down and left for a short traverse. Delicate edging gives way to a gently overhanging section. After the buldge finish with some mantling and a short slab exit to the chains. Awesome pitch.
P3: 5.5, 40 ft - A means to reaching pitch 4. Slab climbing which trends right to the anchors at the bottom of pitch 4. Still enough to keep you mentally engaged due to the exposure.
P4: 5.11c, 80 ft - Delicate edging climbs into and out of a scoop. Pull a buldge/roof with awesome exposure and finish on more edges. Another great pitch. Noticable from the ground by looking for a dark brown streak to the left of the last pitch of Aftershock.

It is the nature of this rock to break/evolve, so the grade is probably subjective and likewise prone to evolving. Any input is welcome.


Between Living on the Edge and Aftershock on the Aftershock wall. Look for a shallow arching right facing corner in black rock. Todd Goss' guide also lists this as a project. Rap the Route with a 70 meter rope.


15 Quickdraws should suffice. All anchors are chains. You can rap with a 70 meter rope from anywhere on the route. There are rap anchors 90 ft below the anchors at the top of pitch 3, as it would be incredibly difficult and scary to try and reverse the traverse on rappel. Don't try walking off the top. You'll get lost.


An awesome route! First pitch is an amazing climb through a difficult three move crux, maybe harder than the suggested rating or I just may be soft. Just expect some grunting on your onsight attempt as you figure out how to paste your feet on to the wall! second pitch is brilliantly bolted and makes for flat out fun climbing through sustained pockets and edges, right on with the rating. enjoy the exposure on the traverse! last pitch is everything one can ask for if your a sport climbing freak with an adventurous twist due to suspect rock.

a very well done route!!! Apr 23, 2014
Thanks for posting Bryan. Glad you enjoyed it. Todd thought the first pitch was also a bit harder than 11c... It's quite subjective I think and I'm primarily a crack climber. To me this pitch climbs like a layback crack so perhaps it suits my strengths. Thanks again dude Apr 25, 2014
Marius vanderMerwe
Saint George, UT
Marius vanderMerwe   Saint George, UT
Only tried the first pitch, but I agree, it felt harder than 11c. Maybe I just don't have the finger strength for laybacking on those small holds (and my feet were slipping off all the time too!) Great route. Apr 26, 2014
Sounds like a consensus... I've changed the grade to reflect. Thanks for the feedback guys! Apr 26, 2014
Nick Watson
SLC, Utah
Nick Watson   SLC, Utah
Did this for the second time today. What an amazing route!! No part of this climb was dull. That first pitch is such a fun lead! the entire route is intense, even the 5.5 traverse. the exposer is quite exciting!
Make sure to grab and step on holds gingerly, as it can be a bit chossy from time to time. Mar 13, 2015
I'm primarily a crack climber and I feel the 11c grade was pretty spot on. I think the grade is going to be subjective to you climbing style. Experienced trad climbers may have an easier time. Really enjoyed this climb. Apr 2, 2015
Boissal .
Small Lake, UT
Boissal .   Small Lake, UT
What a spectacular line! It's sustained and well bolted with varied climbing and awesome exposure. If the trad pitch and walk-off on Aftershock scares you this is a great alternative.

Pitch 1 is way hard (11+/d seems accurate) with some of the slickest feet I've ever had to smear on. The sequence is fairly obvious but very technical with lots of balancy moves and weird body tension. The pump eventually builds up from the lack of feet and pitching of the last mantle is a real possibility. The "manufactured" holds in the corner seem more like pin scars to me, there would be no climbing in Yosemite without those.
Pitch 2 is intimidating and I'm still amazed that is goes (and climbs so well). Props for the vision, I'd have dismissed that section as too blank. The bulge is committing and pumpy and the mantles above add a bit of sandy spice to the mix.
Pitch 3 is as described, easy on paper but fun and engaging in real life. The exposure and lichen certainly make 5.5 feel stout!
Pitch 4 is wild! The patina on the first checkerboard section is very fragile, making for brainy climbing instead of thuggish pulling. The middle section is unnerving with the roof looming above and the rock quality being a bit on the tender side. The roof itself is great, big pulls off jugs to good crimps then a few tense moments to get the feet up and clip. The finish is easy crimping over huge exposure.
I took a ride when I pulled the big scoop jug below the steepest part of the roof. There's more than enough hold left for the route to go and the grade to remain about the same. Remember to pull down, not out! May 26, 2015
Gordon Larsen
St. George, UT
Gordon Larsen   St. George, UT
Climbed the first two pitches with John Tully yesterday. Broke a hold on the upper section of the second pitch and went for a ride. The route is still evolving as more climbers get on it. Good anchors and bolts. Mar 15, 2016
Hyrum j. C
St george, ut
Hyrum j. C   St george, ut
The first pitch feels about as hard as any 12a that I have done in the area. Prolly cause it requires more slab technique than most of the routes here In st George. It's comparable in difficulty to the hall of smears route in Kolob canyon which goes at 11c. Slab is hard! Awesome though! Nov 6, 2016
Will Gadd
  5.11d PG13
Will Gadd  
  5.11d PG13
Fun route with a little desert funk up high to keep it real, but safe climbing, worth doing for sure. First pitch excellent techno action. 11d seems about right. Solid first two pitches then "classic" desert sports action for the last pitch, meaning you'll want to take care with the edges or they may eject you. Still cleaning up some but very much worth doing, nice and smooth descent straight down from P3 with one 80M rope, 70M would work out as well. We rapped, the bush bash to escape for the walk off looked complicated.. Apr 24, 2018