Type: Sport, 300 ft (91 m), 4 pitches
FA: Mark Engibous, Rich Hurd, and Todd Goss
Page Views: 4,517 total · 36/month
Shared By: MarkEngibous on Mar 10, 2014
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D Crane

You & This Route


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Warning Access Issue: PRECIPITATION AND WET ROCK DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

Todd Goss' guide book calls this a route to nowhere as there were about 5 drilled angles with no anchors. It is located between the routes Living on the Edge and Aftershock on the Aftershock Wall. I replaced the drilled angles on pitch 1, added some bolts, and placed chain anchors. I also added 3 more pitches to take this route to the top. Pitch one has some manufactured holds in the seam/shallow right facing corner from the Olevsky era which render it climbable. Not to dissuade you, this pitch is good and still plenty challenging. The pitches are as follows:

P1: 5.11d, 80 ft - Short slab section to right facing flake which becomes a seam in a shallow right facing corner. Layback to a mantle gaining the chains.
P2: 5.11c, 85 ft - Step down and left for a short traverse. Delicate edging gives way to a gently overhanging section. After the buldge finish with some mantling and a short slab exit to the chains. Awesome pitch.
P3: 5.5, 40 ft - A means to reaching pitch 4. Slab climbing which trends right to the anchors at the bottom of pitch 4. Still enough to keep you mentally engaged due to the exposure.
P4: 5.11c, 80 ft - Delicate edging climbs into and out of a scoop. Pull a buldge/roof with awesome exposure and finish on more edges. Another great pitch. Noticable from the ground by looking for a dark brown streak to the left of the last pitch of Aftershock.

It is the nature of this rock to break/evolve, so the grade is probably subjective and likewise prone to evolving. Any input is welcome.

Location Suggest change

Between Living on the Edge and Aftershock on the Aftershock wall. Look for a shallow arching right facing corner in black rock. Todd Goss' guide also lists this as a project. Rap the Route with a 70 meter rope.

Protection Suggest change

15 Quickdraws should suffice. All anchors are chains. You can rap with a 70 meter rope from anywhere on the route. There are rap anchors 90 ft below the anchors at the top of pitch 3, as it would be incredibly difficult and scary to try and reverse the traverse on rappel. Don't try walking off the top. You'll get lost.

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