Pygmy Alien
5.8- YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 14 ZA VS 4c British
Type: | Trad, Sport, 230 ft (70 m), 2 pitches |
FA: | Olevsky |
Page Views: | 38,764 total · 154/month |
Shared By: | Guy H. on Oct 19, 2004 · Updates |
Admins: | Fallon Rowe, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher |
Description
This route is very continuous at the grade. The first pitch is straight forward. If you continue past the first pitch expect an adventure.
P1: Follow a line of 12ish glue ins into a belay in a big hueco in the wall. The start climbs from a sandy fiction slab to steep edge climbing.
P2: Traverse left out of the hueco past 4 suspect pitons. Traverse left to the second crack (do not climb the first crack it seams up and leads nowhere). Follow this to a little alcove below a chimney. Gear belay.
P3: Follow the chimney up. Good protection and great climbing up to a short section of patina. Belay on party ledge. Sling tree for belay. Continue to the top of Island in the Sky via some 4th class scrambling.
Decent: From the top you should encounter the the up climb for the Island in the Sky Traverse. Just go North and you should run into it. Approach shoes are recommended.
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