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Routes in Circus Wall

Barbarian T,S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Cloudwalker T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Freak Show S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Illegal Alien S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Jimmy the Geek S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Just Desserts T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pygmy Alien T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Roar of the Greasepaint S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Trapeze T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Unknown 5.11 T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
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Type: Sport, 130 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,317 total · 13/month
Shared By: Tony B on Jan 3, 2004
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Description

This route is easily identified on Circus wall by it's mid-face anchor of 3 pins equalized with webbing (presently blue/grey) and a rapid link.

The First pitch begins from teh ground moving up some distance to a series of 5 pins, tending gently left to the left side of the rock below this anchor. The second pitch moves sharply up and right into a cave with an additional (similar) anchor within it. The first station and anchor are easily obverved from below. THe pins have a small chop or two of the original blue paint in a few places that can be made out upon vey close inspection.

P1: (5.9, 100') CLimb up the easy slab to reach the first pin and then as the angle steepens reach a small-holds crux (5.9) with some sloper feet before a flat section of the wall (3rd pin?). P2: (5.9, 50') Continue to and past anchor as an extension of P1 if possible (shoudl be if you used long draws), bending sharp right, clipping at the waist past 2 more pins before going to a very vertical section with a reachy crux (5.9) with a pin overhead, then up easier moves into the cave.

A single rap is required for easy retreat due to the right-hand movement of the second pitch. This can be done down to 4th class terrain with a single 70M rope or to the base with two 50M ropes. Either seems safe for anyone remotely capable of leadingthis route.

Protection

This route is essentially a sport route. It can be done with only mild runouts in moderate terrian (5.7?) without any trad gear, although a few small cams or large stoppers could be placed here and there.

Photos

Ken Heiser
Boulder, CO
  5.9
Ken Heiser   Boulder, CO
  5.9
I lead this in one pitch for a really nice 180ft 5.9 pitch. Long slings are useful to remove rope drag. Really enjoyable face climb w/good pro. Feb 8, 2005

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