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Routes in Circus Wall

Barbarian T,S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Cloudwalker T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Freak Show S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Illegal Alien S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Jimmy the Geek S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Just Desserts T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pygmy Alien T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Roar of the Greasepaint S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Trapeze T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Unknown 5.11 T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Type: Trad, 400 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: T.Goss, J.Goodspeed, E.Jones
Page Views: 2,589 total · 28/month
Shared By: Ben C on Jun 17, 2010
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

Cloudwalker ascends a 5.8 corner system past two chain anchors to a two-bolt anchor where the dihedral ends. The second pitch ascends left from the top anchor and up a line of bolts up the face to a ledge marked by a large tree. The final pitch climbs the easy face behind the tree to the summit.

pitch 1: Corner crack system up to a 3 bolt anchor, past two lower mid-station anchors. (210 ft.)

pitch 2: Move let onto the face past 9 bolts to a bolted anchor. (60 ft.)

pitch 3: More face climbing past 11 bolts. (150 ft.)

descent: Rap the route.

Location

Obvious left facing corner furthers left on the Circus Wall.

Protection

medium to large gear and quickdraws.

Photos

Boissal
Small Lake, UT
  5.10a
Boissal   Small Lake, UT
  5.10a
Pitch 1 is a full 60m rope, 210' or so. I'd have been really bummed with only medium to large gear on this pitch. Small nut/cam placements abound and a full set to a BD #5 wouldn't go unused. The climbing is easy but the hollow nature of the rock and spaced out gear keeps you on your toes. I wouldn't recommend this one to a budding 5.8 leader.
We linked P2 and P3 with a bit of simul climbing on a 60m. A 70m would probably work without the 2nd leaving the anchor. Bring tons of draws and runners if you do it that way. P2 is great with crisp patina edging, P3 is more of the same but slightly easier.

I feel like you could rap to the big ledge on top of P2 without issues on a 70m rope. We had double 60s and barely passed the middle mark on rappel.
Make sure your rap from the climbers's right anchor from the top of P2. The other chains look to be better positioned but the chains don't extend over the lip and pulling the rope was nearly impossible. May 26, 2015
pooch
 
pooch  
 
As of 9/25/13 the anchor bolts on the final pitch are very wobbly (not just loose). A 70m will not safely get you back to the ledge from the actual summit. If you read the comments for "pygmy alien", Caleb has a good description for the walk-off. Oct 2, 2013
Patrick Stark
St. George, Utah
 
Patrick Stark   St. George, Utah
 
Cloudwalker ascends the 5.8ish corner system past two obvious chain anchors (the lower one is close to the corner, the upper is out on the face). An additional anchor (two anchor bolts and a third bolt) sits about 160' up right about where the corner system ends. These are hard to see until you're right under them. The second pitch (unless you broke the bottom section into two pitches) ascends left from the top anchor and up a line of bolts up a steep face (5.10?) to the same tree ledge as the top of the second pitch of Barbarian. The final pitch is up the face behind the tree (well bolted, but the anchors are well below the summit and wiggle too much for my taste).

Other than one bolt and clipping the mid pitch anchor the entire first pitch is trad. May 2, 2013

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