Barbarian
5.6 YDS 4c French 14 Ewbanks V UIAA 12 ZA S 4b British R
| Type: | Trad, Sport, 380 ft (115 m), 3 pitches |
| GPS: | 37.19743, -113.64353 |
| FA: | R. Olevsky, K. Stephens |
| Page Views: | 6,265 total · 23/month |
| Shared By: | Tony B on Jan 3, 2004 · Updates |
| Admins: | Fallon Rowe, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher |
Description
This route is easily identified on Circus Wall. It lies on the far left end of the main wall and goes up the W. Face near the North end arete. The 2 pins on P1 and 1 pin on P2 are not easy to see from the ground, but are hard to miss once on route.
P1: (5.6, 120') Climb up the easy slab tending up and left towards a pin seen from the ground, near the right-facing flake on the arete of the wall. While this is indeed the second pin, the first lies back behind a sloping ledge and can not be seen until you are upon it. Med-large stoppers or perhaps a few hand-sized cams are good pro here and the pins seem unneccesary for a good lead. Continue climbing for 120' (35M) to reach a ledge with fixed anchors. Rapping from here with a single 70M rope is easily done. With a 'short' 70M some 4th class downclimbing may be necessary to hit terra firma.
P2: (5.6 R, 140') Continue up past the anchor first going directly up, then briefly right to a crack, up the unprotectable face to a single pin, then back into a crack that takes you to a sizable ledge shared by Cloudwalker and Just Desserts. ~42M. There will be some significant runouts with crispy chickenheads and plates slung for pro. I would not exect these to hold significant falls. As well, there are a few opportunities for nuts or tricams between plates which may be better, but not good. Approach a lead of this pitch with caution as per the experience and ability of the leader. This is not right for a neophyte climber. Retreat from this point would require 2 ropes or some downclimbing of significant consequence on questionable rock.
P3: (5.5, 140') On the face behind the ledge above P2 you can see a few bolts with red hangers, these are closely spaced for the most part and are generally good. A few are somewhat poorly placed though, and most require 1-foot draws to avoid hanging the rope in odd flakes. Sport draws would be a poor choice here. Climb past perhaps 12 bolts to a set of rap hangers, from which a single 70M rope will 'just' make it down or clip these with a long sling and continue 20' additional to the summit of the formation.
The climb is good overall and would improve with heavy traffic.
Decent:
From the first pitch: Rappel from the ledge to the ground
From the 2/3 pitch: 60m/70m rap cloud walker using the intermediate anchors on the route. 80m rap back down to the ledge at the end of pitch 1, then to the ground.
Protection
Single rack to BD #2 w/ alpine draws. Doubles if you feel like sewing it up.
The second pitch is severely runout and has questionable rock. You can sling a chicken head but it probably cant take too big of a fall. This is easy for an advanced climber to handle, but would be a dubious proposal for a beginning leader.
The 3rd pitch, as described, is for the most part a well-bolted sport climb.



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