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Routes in Circus Wall

Barbarian T,S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Cloudwalker T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Freak Show S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Illegal Alien S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Jimmy the Geek S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Just Desserts T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pygmy Alien T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Roar of the Greasepaint S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Trapeze T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Unknown 5.11 T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

Description

Circus Wall is part of the Island in the Sky formation. It faces west and receives afternoon sun, being the northmost aspect of this wall, it is also the first to receive Sun, with the left-most routes coming into the sun first, with the rest shortly following as the light progresses to the right (south). This 250 foot tall area contains some of the best climbing in the Snow Canyon State Park. Just to the Right lies the Aftershock Wall, which is on the same formation and of the same stone, and separated only by height and guidebook designation.

Circus Wall contains a few routes of both single and Multi-pitch lengths, and a 60M or two 60M ropes are suggested if you intend to rap from any of the routes. Some REQUIRE a 70M or two 60M. The grades vary from 5.6 to 5.10, all of which are at least partially 'bolted' (drilled angles). For those that are not 'bolted' they are by and large reasonably protected with a light rack of trad gear. A majority of the climbing is on good solid Patina edges and all but two of the routes get 2-3/3 stars from the local guidebook.

Roar Of The Greasepaint (***, 10a, 2-pitch, 150') and Pygmy Alien (***, 5.7, 2-pitch, 250') are noted as the best lines on this section of the Wall.

To descend, take a long rope or possibly 2 long ropes to rap the route you are on, or pick your way down the north end of the Island In The Sky rock for 400' passing some climbing and/or fixed raps. Allow 30-60 minutes for this "walk off" if you choose to do it. It is ambiguous and wandering, so I am choosing not to describe it particularly, other than to say it is not appropriate for novice climbers.

Getting There

From the park entrance, drive down the main road passing the 'West Canyon day use area' on the right and going to the Pioneer Names trail on the right. This is well marked and has a pullout just there. The left-hand side of the large wall to the right is your destination. Spot a small cave and a very large arch on the wall. Take the trail to wall below the cave, where the late-1800's settling Pioneers painted in their names with greasepaint. Circus Wall includes all of the routes starting at the crack and arete near the left edge of the wall (The Barbarian) and continuing right to Trapese, at the right edge of the cave , and just left of what has been called the Aftershock Wall.

10 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Circus Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pygmy Alien
Trad, Sport 2 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Just Desserts
Trad 3 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Jimmy the Geek
Sport 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Freak Show
Sport 2 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Roar of the Greasepaint
Sport 2 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cloudwalker
Trad 3 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Illegal Alien
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Pygmy Alien 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, Sport 2 pitches
Just Desserts 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 3 pitches
Jimmy the Geek 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport 2 pitches
Freak Show 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport 2 pitches
Roar of the Greasepaint 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport 2 pitches
Cloudwalker 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 3 pitches
Illegal Alien 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
More Classic Climbs in Circus Wall »

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Photos

Hyrum j. C
St george, ut
Hyrum j. C   St george, ut
Found a rope on this wall on cloud walker a couple days ago. Let me know if it’s yours. Nov 4, 2017

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