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Trapeze
5.10a YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British R
Avg: 2.3 from 8
votes
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Ventura Highway T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
| Type: | Trad, 150 ft (45 m) |
| GPS: | 37.19743, -113.64353 |
| FA: | Olevsky |
| Page Views: | 1,297 total · 6/month |
| Shared By: | Guy H. on Oct 31, 2007 |
| Admins: | Fallon Rowe, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher |
Access Issue: PRECIPITATION AND WET ROCK
Details
Description
The guidebook says this one is not worth the effort due to hideous rope drag. I guess I can't disagree with that accessment. There are a number of pitons placement side by side, and a number of horizontal traverses throughout the route. I did find a challenge of reaching the anchor without grinding to a halt due to rope drag. This is the final exam for rope management. You will receive a passing grade, if you make it to the anchor without profanity.
The first drill piton is up the rib and just to the right of the top of the cave, about 40-50ft up. (5.6R/X) Continue to the left clipping two side by side pitons with long slings. Make sure you back clean the first clip, or suffer. Continue back and forth up the wall with back cleaning or skipping clips to reduce drag. At the last pin, angle to the left about 20ft to a rap anchor at 150ft. You can rap and clean, but it is best to have someone follow the route.
4 Comments