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Routes in Circus Wall

Barbarian T,S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Cloudwalker T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Freak Show S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Illegal Alien S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Jimmy the Geek S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Just Desserts T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pygmy Alien T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Roar of the Greasepaint S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Trapeze T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Unknown 5.11 T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Type: Trad, 150 ft
FA: Olevsky
Page Views: 469 total · 4/month
Shared By: Guy H. on Oct 31, 2007
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Description

The guidebook says this one is not worth the effort due to hideous rope drag. I guess I can't disagree with that accessment. There are a number of pitons placement side by side, and a number of horizontal traverses throughout the route. I did find a challenge of reaching the anchor without grinding to a halt due to rope drag. This is the final exam for rope management. You will receive a passing grade, if you make it to the anchor without profanity.

The first drill piton is up the rib and just to the right of the top of the cave, about 40-50ft up. (5.6R/X) Continue to the left clipping two side by side pitons with long slings. Make sure you back clean the first clip, or suffer. Continue back and forth up the wall with back cleaning or skipping clips to reduce drag. At the last pin, angle to the left about 20ft to a rap anchor at 150ft. You can rap and clean, but it is best to have someone follow the route.

Location

The first route to the right of Roar of the Greasepaint, and just to the right of the cave.

Protection

A bunch of 2 ft slings

Photos

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Jason James
Provo, UT
 
Jason James   Provo, UT
 
Pretty gnarly runout to the first piton. I usually don't mind runouts but this runout is kinda ridiculous considering there are too many ridiculously placed pitons above. I hope someone places a bolt about 20' lower someday. Might save someone their life or serious injury.
Anyways, use a 4' sling on the first piton that's up there right now and then you won't have to back clean it. On the rest of the climb, I used 4 2' slings (and several quick draws) and I skipped 2 pitons and back cleaned 1. The rope drag wasn't bad after doing that.

Overall a fun route if you don't mind doing everything mentioned above. Pretty balancy in parts. Jan 19, 2015
"The guidebook says this one is not worth the effort due to hideous rope drag."

There's no significant rope drag if you use double ropes. Mar 22, 2009

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