Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Circus Wall

Barbarian T,S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Cloudwalker T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Freak Show S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Illegal Alien S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Jimmy the Geek S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Just Desserts T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pygmy Alien T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Roar of the Greasepaint S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Trapeze T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Unknown 5.11 T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Type: Trad, 300 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Todd Goss
Page Views: 1,393 total, 19/month
Shared By: Ken Noyce on Nov 14, 2011 with updates
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


12 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

This route heads right from the first set of rap anchors on Cloudwalker. The crux is passing the first bolt after the Cloudwalker anchors.

1st pitch follows the dihedral crack of Cloudwalker for the first 50 feet or so then steps right onto the steeper face of the dihedral for a couple of bolts and ends on a slabby, juggy, overbolted face.

2nd pitch is sport and appears to continue up a slabby, juggy, overbolted face directly above the first pitch anchors.

3rd pitch is also sport.

You will need a 70 meter rope to finish the final pitch.

Protection

1 or 2 midsized cams to get to the anchors on Cloudwalker then bolts for the rest of the way

Photos

Mike Womack
Los Angeles, CA
  5.7
Mike Womack   Los Angeles, CA
  5.7
The 2nd rappel was kind of tricky. We ended up rapping cloudwalker. As for the overbolting - I thinks its OK here. If you prefer less clips, then skip some here and there like I did. However, the overbolting allows this climb to make a GREAT first multipitch for a couple of newer climbers making it a little less serious. Nov 25, 2016
crhaag
St.George
 
crhaag   St.George
 
Be sure to tie a good back up knot when rappelling. A 70m did not quite reach the anchor station from the top and we had to clip a bolt with some extended slings, come off the rappel, and then down climb a few feet to the anchor station. Not too sketchy, just unexpected. Sep 25, 2016
fossana
leeds, ut
fossana   leeds, ut
Whoever retrobolted the crap out of P2-3 is an idiot. The bolts are ~6 feet apart on 5.4 terrain. May 17, 2016