Just Desserts
5.7 YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British
Type: | Trad, 300 ft (91 m), 3 pitches |
FA: | Todd Goss |
Page Views: | 5,425 total · 34/month |
Shared By: | Ken Noyce on Nov 14, 2011 · Updates |
Admins: | Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane |
Description
This route heads right from the first set of rap anchors on Cloudwalker. The crux is passing the first bolt after the Cloudwalker anchors. The route then continues up a rib of rock through petina and some slab (mostly 5.6-5.7 or easier), meeting the top of the rib, then going right to the top of Island in the Sky.
P1: follow the dihedral crack of Cloudwalker for the first 50 feet or so, placing some small/medium gear up to the first set of anchors on Cloudwalker. Step right onto the steeper face of the dihedral for a couple of bolts, ending with some easy petina jugs up to the two-bolt anchor on a comfy belay ledge (rap rings available here).
P2: Follow the rib of rock through good petina holds with a few slabby moments. Bring 14-16 draws for this pitch! The line of bolts eventually leads to the huge belay ledge at the top of the rib feature. Several two bolt anchors exist at the top of the pitch; currently the one just above the lip on the flat ledge is the best.
P3: Another sport pitch leads through several more bolts up to a two-bolt anchor just below the top of Island in the Sky.
Descent: Either rappel Cloudwalker with 60-70m rope, or descend the north side of Island in the Sky. Goss's descent recommendations in the guidebook have proven inaccurate.
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