All Locations > Utah > Southwest Utah > Saint George > Snow Canyon SP > Island In The Sky > Circus Wall

Just Desserts

Name: Just Desserts
Rating: 2.9

5.7 YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British

Routes in Circus Wall

L › R R › L A › Z

	Barbarian T,S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
	Cloudwalker T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Freak Show S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Grey Nomads S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Illegal Alien S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Jimmy the Geek S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Just Desserts T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Pygmy Alien T,S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Roar of the Greasepaint S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Trapeze T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
	Unknown 5.11 T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Ventura Highway T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

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Type:	Trad, 300 ft (91 m), 3 pitches
FA:	Todd Goss
Page Views:	5,225 total · 35/month
Shared By:	Ken Noyce on Nov 14, 2011 · Updates
Admins:	Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: PRECIPITATION AND WET ROCK Details

The sandstone here is easily damaged when wet. Please allow at least 24-48 hours before climbing after any precipitation. If the ground is at all damp, please do not climb on any local sandstone. Consider nearby options on basalt, limestone, granite, or plastic instead.

Description

This route heads right from the first set of rap anchors on Cloudwalker. The crux is passing the first bolt after the Cloudwalker anchors. The route then continues up a rib of rock through petina and some slab (mostly 5.6-5.7 or easier), meeting the top of the rib, then going right to the top of Island in the Sky.

P1: follow the dihedral crack of Cloudwalker for the first 50 feet or so, placing some small/medium gear up to the first set of anchors on Cloudwalker. Step right onto the steeper face of the dihedral for a couple of bolts, ending with some easy petina jugs up to the two-bolt anchor on a comfy belay ledge (rap rings available here).

P2: Follow the rib of rock through good petina holds with a few slabby moments. Bring 14-16 draws for this pitch! The line of bolts eventually leads to the huge belay ledge at the top of the rib feature. Several two bolt anchors exist at the top of the pitch; currently the one just above the lip on the flat ledge is the best.

P3: Another sport pitch leads through several more bolts up to a two-bolt anchor just below the top of Island in the Sky.

Descent: Either rappel Cloudwalker with 60-70m rope, or descend the north side of Island in the Sky. Goss's descent recommendations in the guidebook have proven inaccurate.