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Routes in War Zone

Black Massacre S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Dr Yes S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Richness of It All, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
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Type: Sport, 400 ft, 4 pitches
FA: Daryl Biniaz
Page Views: 4,181 total · 44/month
Shared By: drewford on Jan 24, 2011
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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32 Opinions

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Fun sport route with varied face and hueco climbing. There is a short approach ramp (50 feet, 3 bolts) that doesn't really count as a pitch. The first true pitch is a good warm up at 5.11-. The second pitch is the crux and is a test of technical edge skills. The third pitch wanders up and left to a thin section above an overlap (5.11). The last pitch is not to be missed. Easy 5.10 huecos and edges take you up a twisted arete 350' above the canyon.


Most of the belays are semi-hanging. Rap the route. One 60m rope is all you need.


Bolts and rap hangers.
Eric Godfrey
slc, ut
Eric Godfrey   slc, ut
Wanted to only give it three stars because some spots were pretty sandy, a foot hold or two started to crumble, there were a few hollow sounding spots, and one or two holds wiggled like they were ready to break. However, it climbs REALLY well, and that last pitch is one of the best I've done so... four stars it is. My opinion is that the crux on the third pitch is only slightly easier than the crux on the second. The books grades are Pitch 1 - 5.11a, Pitch 2 - 5.12a, Pitch 3 - 5.11c, Pitch 4 - 5.11c. MY grades are: Pitch 1 - 5.11a, Pitch 2 - 5.12a, Pitch 3 - 5.11d, Pitch 4 - 5.10c Feb 14, 2011
steve edwards
steve edwards   SLC, UT
Glad this route made it in here. I thought the third pitch was pretty bad. Super hollow in sections and, in my opinion, a lot harder than pitch two. Of course since I'm pretty sure that pitch changes it's possible a couple of years ago it was harder than it is now. But regardless of grade the crux was sandy and not so fun. It was so bad I tried to scope a weakness up the good rock on the direct line. Even if much harder--and it would be--it would improve the overall climb. The rest is great. Agreed the last pitch was by far the easiest of the route but, again, that may/probably has changed since the first ascent. Mar 24, 2011
+1 eric Jun 13, 2012
Salt Lake City
CaseyElliott   Salt Lake City
This route must have cleaned up over the years. Pitch three was fine and the sandy section could be avoided. The last pitch has some loose rocks and a foothold broke on me. Other than that this route deserves the 4 star rating due to the hard but solid climbing and the fun, exposed finish.
P1 5.11c watch for a loose rock or two
P2 5.12a solid
P3 5.11c/d sandy section but solid
P4 5.11 a with some kitty litter Feb 16, 2016
Zach Buecker
Knoxville, TN
Zach Buecker   Knoxville, TN
Amazing route from start to finish. Gets afternoon sun in the winter. P1-11A, P2-12A sustained pumpy edges, P3-11C/D hard move over the little roof and then a thin bit before jugs to the anchors, P4-10C hard to avoid the amazing 5.9 jugs on the left of the arete. More or less hanging belay at top of P1, belay ledges at top of P2&3. Feb 20, 2016
Hyrum j. C
St george, ut
Hyrum j. C   St george, ut
Really good varied styles of climbing on each pitch. Four stars all the way!!
Pitch 1 = 10d vertical edging and jugs.
Pitch 2 = 12a vertical crimping and edging.
Pitch 3 = 11d good jugging goes to a slopey crux.
Pitch 4 = 10a jugs up arrette.
For one awesome long pitch lead pitches 1 and 2 together! May 24, 2016
Matt Enlow
Matt Enlow   Wyoming
Cheers to Zach for telling me to climb this. I'd agree with his ratings, with a firmer upgrade on pitch 3: 11d.

I took too many photos and had too much to say about this climb and so ended up just doing an entire blog post on it.… Nov 30, 2016
Boulder, CO
michalm   Boulder, CO
Despite the sandiness and a bit of fragile rock, this is one of the most brilliant multi-pitch face climbs I have ever indulged in. The movement was so diverse, spectacular, unique, and sustained that I cannot help but to bestow upon this route 5 out of 4 stars, especially for the area. Each pitch left me and my partner grinning from ear to ear. Is this real? Is this in Snow Canyon, of all places?

The first pitch is a good lead for the less confident climber in the party to get mentally and physically warmed up. 11- seems like a fair overall grade considering the range of heights of climbers. Fantastically technical edging and ninja moves is followed by steepening pump on solution holds and a delightful mantle.

The second pitch is one of the most sustained face climbs I have ever experienced. I have hardly climbed a route, even on limestone, that serves this level of sustained, enjoyable, pumpy, and technical vertical face climbing on largely perfect edges. The dark patina is simply some of the best, on par with Red Rock bulletproof sandstone. Up higher, the rock loses its ebony varnish and gets quite soft, but the frictiony, balancy moves stay engaging. I am not usually one to upgrade routes, and perhaps it is because I did not read the sequence correctly, but I found the crux to be V5+ after a long 11/11+ section without rests, which makes 12a seem like a bit of a sandbag. I must admit that I fell at the crux due to hanging out on crux holds for far too long. I would propose 12 for this pitch as an onsight grade. Redpoint grading multipitch routes seems a little silly. Keep in mind that the route is constantly changing and holds are indeed breaking or becoming less positive. Make sure you give the rock 2+ sunny days to dry before climbing on it after precipitation due to its soft, delicate, and porous nature.

The third pitch has some slightly sandy, soft rock, but the climbing is fantastic. This is the pitch that people frequently complain about, but I found the steepness, the diversity of movement, and the unrelenting pumpy nature to be absolutely delightful. The crux involved a truly improbably sequence that was largely friction-dependent. This felt like 11+ for my 6 feet of height, and my 5'4" partner though it was probably 12-, in part due to the endurance factor.

The fourth pitch was simply incredible. Could this climb get any better? The jugs on a twisting, leaning, overhung arete were straight out of a Dr. Seuss book. Almost every move involved a jug that I could one-arm hang from, although occasionally feet were scarce. The bolting on this pitch was reasonable and safe, while the bolting on the other pitches was often excessively generous. Really, any one of these pitches would get 4 stars at a crag, but this pitch may have the longest line for its fun factor and accessible grade. I found it to be 10 and my shorter partner thought 10+/11- is fair.

I have to this date not climbed a more enjoyable multi-pitch sport route. Don't hesitate to hop on if you are a solid 5.11 onsight climber. You will likely be able to pull past some cruxes due to the tight bolting on the hard pitches.

NOTE: I would suggest adding a crescent wrench to the rack to tighten a few anchor bolts. I finger-tightened an obviously loose one on the way down. Jan 2, 2017
erin demarco  
I led the 11- first pitch and it was super fun, thoughtful, techy climbing. I love this style of climbing, so I actually found it easier than the more powerful jug-haul that is the last pitch, which can be a tiny bit awkward in places (but then there is a solid, super positive hold pretty much right where you want after any awkwardness). P1 is also on slightly better rock. Jan 2, 2017
Hyrum j. C
St george, ut
Hyrum j. C   St george, ut
I accidentally left my chalk bag close to the bottom of this route last week. If anyone has found it please let me know. Thanks. Jun 6, 2017
Harrison Schutt
Missoula, MT
Harrison Schutt   Missoula, MT
One of the best climbs I've ever done. I was skeptical about the quality of sandstone crimping, but was pleasantly surprised. The rock on the first two pitches (and the hard part of the third) is bomber. The grades are pretty on point, but p3 was no gimme at 11d. Its less sustained than the crux pitch, but really made me work on some slopey pin scar looking things. The last belay is hanging and gave me the hebejeebs after leading the semi loose pitch. Go climb this thing! Nov 25, 2017
Will Gadd  
A Snow Canyon classic, but it'd be a classic anywhere, just really fun. Micro approach, mega climb. Last pitch a straightforward but awesome jug haul at 5.10. Looks like it's gonna be hard but it's just fun. Apr 24, 2018

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