Type: Trad, Sport, 260 ft (79 m), 4 pitches
GPS: 37.1907, -113.64306
FA: Ron Olevsky
Page Views: 58,946 total · 246/month
Shared By: SMH Climber on Nov 27, 2006 · Updates
Admins: Fallon Rowe, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher

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Warning Access Issue: PRECIPITATION AND WET ROCK DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

Can be done in 3 pitches with a 60m rope, though 70m is recommended for the rappel.

Route Description: Mixed route requiring gear with significant runout sections, and old school bolting standards. Follower faces significant risk of injury when falling on traverse of second pitch. 

P1: Climb sandy slab moving up and right past awkward overlapping joints protected by 3 glue in bolts. Continue right into hand crack in corner. Good placements for gear from #1 to #3 Camalot (significant ground fall potential if no gear placed)  Single piton on left prior to mantle to ledge and anchor. 

P2: Traverse past 4 widely spaced bolts to the right, climbing up after last bolt with a 30' runout to the anchor on a small ledge. Possible to sling marginal chicken heads on runout.


P3&4: both pitches are straight forward and can be linked together. There is some runout on this section, but there is the option of slinging marginal chicken heads.

Descent:  3 raps to the ground with a 70m (60m is possible, though not recommended)

1. From the top, rappel down the gully to the south. (If using 60m rope, easy downclimbing accesses next anchors.)

2. Rappel hangers and chain above the chimney. Anchor in direct when rigging. 

3. Anchor for Stranger than Friction leads to the ground. 

Protection Suggest change

The only trad needed is for protecting the short crack up to the first belay.  

Pro: The crack can be protected by a single #2 cam. The rest of the route is bolted.  Slings are helpful for extending.  1 60m rope is sufficient.

Location Suggest change

Lepoord Skin

starts the same as Gratitude.
The original start is about 50ft to the right.

Photos

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