Avg: 3.3 from 72 votes
Routes in Sand Dunes
|Clairvoyance S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Fragments of Floyd S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a|
|Gratitude S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Jimmy Durante S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R|
|Kibosch Buttress T,S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Leopard Skin T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Leopard's Tail T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13|
|Little Miss Demeanor S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Mack's Rush T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R|
|Stepping Out T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Stranger Than Friction S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Thousand Pints of Lite S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Twist and Shout S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|What's New Pussycat? S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Will's Rush T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a|
|Type:||Trad, Sport, 260 ft, 4 pitches|
|Page Views:||15,561 total, 116/month|
|Shared By:||SMH Climber on Nov 27, 2006|
|Admins:||Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq|
DescriptionCan be done in 3 pitches with a 50m rope - but 4 will reduce the rope drag.
Route Description update as of 8/14/16. The route has been rebolted there are only about five pitons left, otherwise all new bolts with 3 bolt belay stations. The first belay station above the crack was removed so the climb is now three pitches.
P1: Climb the slab past 2 pitons to gain access to the left facing corner crack. Climb to the top of the crack then traverse about ten feet to the left on the slab above the crack to the first bolt then follow the bolt line straight up to the first belay. I did not have much rope left on my 60m rope but you might be able to use a 50m if your belayer climbs up the easy slab a litle bit.
P2&3: Follow the bolt lines straight up to the top.
The Descent: You can rap the gulley/chimney to the south then you will see two rap anchors in the top of another chimney which will rap to the top of the science of friction 1 more rap takes you to the ground. Some have rapped with a 70m rope and barley made it to the second rap point, it could be done with a shorter rope however you would just have to walk the rest of the way across roughly 3rd class terrain.
ProtectionMedium cam for the opening moves (#3 Camalot works). I've watched people back off the climb all together because they only brought draws. Pitons placed on lead.
Pro: Take more than a #3 cam unless you want to run it out 40 feet to the first bolt I would recomend a #3 or #2 cam, large stopper or medium hex, and a set of tcu's. quick draws and a couple extra slings. 1 60m rope.