Avg: 3.3 from 165 votes
|Type:||Trad, Sport, 260 ft (79 m), 4 pitches|
|Page Views:||51,765 total · 285/month|
|Shared By:||SMH Climber on Nov 27, 2006 · Updates|
|Admins:||Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane|
Can be done in 3 pitches with a 50m rope.
Route Description update as of 8/14/16. The route has been rebolted there are only about five pitons left, otherwise all new bolts with 3 bolt belay stations.
P1: Climb unprotected on easy terrain to gain access to the left facing finger crack and clip the first bolt. Traverse about ten feet to the right on the slab to get to the second bolt. Then follow the hand crack up and to the right to a large ledge. Optional piton can be clipped when mantling on to the ledge (look up and to the left).
P2: Traverse to the right following the bolt line to the belay station. Runout near the end of the pitch can be protected by slinging chickenheads.
P3&4: both pitches are straight forward and can be linked together. There is some runout on this section, but there is the option of slinging chicken heads.
The Descent: You can rap the gulley/chimney to the south then you'll see two rap anchors in the top of another chimney which will rap to the top of the science of friction. 1 more rap takes you to the ground. A 60m rope took us down the first two repels. On the third repel there was about 10ft of 3rd class terrain.
The only trad needed is for protecting the short crack up to the first belay.
Pro: The crack can be protected by a single #2 cam. The rest of the route is bolted. Slings are helpful for extending. 1 60m rope is sufficient.
The original start is about 50ft to the right.