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Routes in War Zone

Dr Yes S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Richness of It All, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
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Description [Suggest Change]

West-facing wall with very dark patina features. About 100 yards south of the Aftershock Wall. This area is full of hits and misses...most of which are misses.

The climbing can be tough and the routes rather long. The grades sit mostly in the mid .11 range with a few .12-ish pitches.

Getting There [Suggest Change]

Park at the Pioneer Names pullout and walk east 5 minutes.

2 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at War Zone

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
The Richness of It All
Sport 4 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
The Richness of It All
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport 4 pitches
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all over, mostly Utah
BigNobody   all over, mostly Utah
This wall was the site of a unique "war" at the time. Ron Olvesky had brought his Zion tactics over here. But instead of manufacturing pin scars he was manufacturing holds. It was typical 80's "lets see where the boundary is". Although, knowing Ron, it was just what he wanted to fucking do. And don't mess with it.

He drilled out the pocket's and chipped the edges on Dr.Yes and Black Massacre. Making a fun 4 pitch manufactured route in the process. The Snow Canyon rangers did not approve of his using a drill to make holds and brought out a 12 foot extension ladder and epoxied his drilled pockets shut.

Now if you know Ron this drove him mad. After hearing the news he went back out there and started drilling them back out. This went back and forth a couple times from my dusty memory. Finally the rangers found him out there re-drilling the pockets. A few expletives were exchanged. I think Ron had a firearm (usually does), whether he brandished it or not had always been up for debate.

Ron is banned from Snow Canyon to this day I believe. Ah, the good old days.

Ron created most of the well traveled classics in Zion and Snow canyon. He had quite the untouched play ground and vision. I still tip my hat to him. Jan 23, 2017
Wasatch Back, UT
drewford   Wasatch Back, UT
Yep, that's Ronnie O. Quite a character. Climbing used to have (and still needs) colorful characters. I'll never forget witnessing a scene between Ron and Mugs Stump. Ron was bragging about how he was going to drill pockets all the way up the right side of the Monkeyfinger dihedral. Mugs loomed over Ron, punched his finger in his chest and said, "Do and I'll break you in half." Ron beat a hasty retreat. Jan 26, 2017
A friend went to a "climbing in zion" slide show in the 90's at Outdoor Outlet. Ron said there was a route near one in one of the slides from the back of theroom. He then proceeded to point it out with a laser pointer. When people turned around to see him talking they saw the laser pointer was actually a laser scope attached to the pistol he was packing that night. . . lots of memorable "Ron O" stories. Glad I was in Southern Utah at a time to hear them. Jan 27, 2017

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