Type: Sport, 160 ft (48 m), 2 pitches
FA: C. Farr and D. Biniaz
Page Views: 3,349 total · 20/month
Shared By: Perin Blanchard on Feb 19, 2008
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane

You & This Route


47 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
-none-
Access Issue: PRECIPITATION AND WET ROCK Details

Description

A two-pitch sport climb on crispy varnish features, with a slabby move thrown in here and there.

P1 Climb up to a bulging flake and clip the second bolt. Getting past the second bolt is the most difficult move of the pitch, but a little thought and balance will see it through. After the second bolt trend generally right using varnish knobs and features to the anchor.

P2 Didn't get to climb it, but the pitch starts up from the P1 anchor and trends left to an anchor on top and at the right of the overhang that is above and to your left while at the P1 anchor.

Location

Get to this via the "second tier" ledge in the Sand Dunes area of the Island in the Sky formation.

At the top of the 3rd-class gully that leads to the second tier, head south (right). Pass two bulging buttresses on your left. What's New Pussycat is on the third buttress, just past a gully. There is a drilled pin route (Stranger than Friction) across the gully to the left of this bolted line.

Looking up the midpoint rappel anchor is obvious with its slings.

Protection

P1 9 bolts to a two-bolt anchor. The guidebook says 8 bolts.
P2 8 bolts (according to the guidebook).

Descent

Rappel from the P2 anchor straight down to a midpoint rappel anchor with slings that lies to the left of the P1 anchor. Rappel from there to the ground.

Rappelling from the P1 anchor is also easy since the hangers are Metolius rap hangers.

Photos