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Routes in Sand Dunes

Clairvoyance S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Fragments of Floyd S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Gratitude S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Jimmy Durante S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Kibosch Buttress T,S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Leopard Skin T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Leopard's Tail T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Little Miss Demeanor S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mack's Rush T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Stepping Out T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Stranger Than Friction S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Thousand Pints of Lite S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Twist and Shout S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
What's New Pussycat? S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Will's Rush T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Type: Sport, 330 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Matt Kindred, Jorge Visser and Mike Anderson
Page Views: 723 total · 10/month
Shared By: Dan Lay on Dec 9, 2011
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Description

P1) The first 20 ft can be protected with a couple b.d. nuts, #.4 camalot, and a TCU#1(5.7). Arrive at a ledge and climb slab past 3 bolts(crux)(5.9+?), mantle ledge and arrive at a two bolt anchor(~80ft).
P2) Runout slab (~90 ft)(5.9+?)
P3) Runout slab (~160 ft)(5.9).

Exit- Walk north past Leopard Skin and down the beaten path.

Location

Take Jenny's Canyon trail until the trail comes within ~15 ft of the southern tip of the formation. This climbs a long ridge type slab. Start to the right of the massive boulder

Protection

~10 Quickdraws

Photos

Marius vanderMerwe
Saint George, UT
  5.10d R
Marius vanderMerwe   Saint George, UT
  5.10d R
First pitch is harder than 5.9 (crux move is about 10d in my opinion, but I am no expert slab climber).

Though pitches 2 and 3 are much easier (5.9 sounds about right), be warned that both involve severe run-outs over rock of questionable quality. Apr 19, 2015
Sisyphus
W. Mass, S. Utah
Sisyphus   W. Mass, S. Utah
Name of this route is Jimmy Durante, rated 5.9R. FA was Matt Kindred, Jorge Visser and Mike Anderson. Dec 12, 2011