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Routes in Sand Dunes

Clairvoyance S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Fragments of Floyd S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Gratitude S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Jimmy Durante S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Kibosch Buttress T,S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Leopard Skin T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Leopard's Tail T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Little Miss Demeanor S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mack's Rush T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Stepping Out T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Stranger Than Friction S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Thousand Pints of Lite S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Twist and Shout S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
What's New Pussycat? S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Will's Rush T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Type: Trad, Sport, 120 ft
FA: Ron Olevsky
Page Views: 1,876 total, 23/month
Shared By: Sarah Meiser on May 1, 2011
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Description

Kibosch Buttress is a worthwhile climb if you're in the area and looking for something on the easier side of the spectrum. It is a reasonable climb for beginning leaders.

The route can be done in one long pitch and has two distinct sections.

Begin up a right to left trending ramp/corner system with a fist sized crack. This initial section is very sandy and is the crux of the climb (5.6). Pitons are awkwardly placed on the wall to the right of the ramp and I'm not even sure why they're there as the crack takes protection well enough. I ended up using medium sized gear in the crack as well as the pitons since they were there. Confident leaders may be happy using only the fixed gear.

At the top of the ramp is an intermediate rappel anchor and at this point the character of the climb changes dramatically. Bypass the two pin anchor on the right and continue up beautiful varnish jugs (5.4) past a fixed piton or two to the top anchor. This section is runout but easy and secure.

Rope drag can be a bit of an issue near the top of the route, especially if you're clipping both trad and fixed protection, but I found it to be manageable. The climb could easily be broken into two pitches to eliminate rope drag if necessary. Alternatively, some parties may prefer to forego the short upper section and stop at the intermediate anchor. The upper section is easy and aesthetic if you like pulling on varnish jugs but it offers little challenge.

To descend, rappel from the top anchor angling toward the intermediate rappel anchor (much easier than it looks) and then from the intermediate anchor to the ground.

Location

This route is on the far left (north) side of second tier of the Sand Dunes Area. See beta photo. Look for a 5.6 ramp/crack/corner with pitons in the right wall to start.

Protection

6-8 old fixed pitons, medium gear for the crack.

Photos

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