Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Ron Olevsky
Page Views: 9,884 total · 93/month
Shared By: Julian Smith on Apr 30, 2010
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


16 Opinions

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Description

This is a great, short route that can be found almost at the top of the access gully that is found on the left hand side of the Sand Dunes Crag. In 70 feet, it combines a little bit of slab and crack climbing, past 4 fixed pins. Take a little bit of medium sized gear along too so the run-out is not so bad. To start, look for a fixed pin at the base of a right facing, arching dihedral. To your right will be a route called Little Miss Demeaner, which is 5.10-. So, Twist and Shout should look a little easier to climb.
Work your way up the opening moves, using the dihedral for some holds, until you encounter a slabby crux that forces you a bit out on the face. Great climbing continues to the top.

Location

This route is the last one that is encountered as you ascend the approach gully, which is located on the left hand side of the Sand Dunes crag. It is on your right, almost at the top of the gully. Look for a fixed pin that is about 10' off the deck.

Protection

Mostly quickly draws will be all you need, but take a bit of medium sized gear too, if you want to cut down on the run-out between the fixed gear.

Photos

taylormade
  5.9
taylormade  
  5.9
This was a fun route, but not exactly "sport". Placed a cam to protect the belayer/start (i.e. if I bailed before the first pin), and a nut above the first pin. Also, thought the crux was definitely tough for the grade, assuming you are meant to stay generally in the pin line. Finally, anchors weren't where I expected - they were up and left, away from the line of the pins. Topped out and found them. So - very fun and engaging climb, but not your usual "sport" line. Mar 29, 2015
Thumer
SLC, UT
  5.7
Thumer   SLC, UT
  5.7
Fun route. I thought the 5.7 rating was fair. Used a #3 C4 between pins 1 and 2. If you are going to top rope it, you should use long runners to extend the anchor over the edge. Sep 11, 2016
Andy Novak
Bailey, CO
Andy Novak   Bailey, CO
Really fun route! But, not for the budding 5.7 leader. There are some minor run-outs even with the supplemental trad pro. Adding a bolt/pin down low before the current 1st pin would be good IMO. Kinda seems like the route is unnecessarily run-out with the current fixed gear, but I guess that's Ron's style. TR without leading is possible. Apr 3, 2017
Nate Kes
Salt Lake City
  5.8 PG13
Nate Kes   Salt Lake City
  5.8 PG13
Somewhere between a 5.7 and 5.9 in my opinion (I'm not good at rating). PG-13 because the start is a bit rough, and the crux landing possibly puts you landing on a sloper. It was quite the interesting route. Even with gear it felt a bit run out. I put slings on practically everything to reduce drag.

Between Piton 1-2: Placed the largest stopper I had in the 30 degree angle crack

Between Piton 2-3: Placed a .75 in a mediocre placement.

Piton 3-4: Crux is definitely here and felt harder than a 5.7 (assuming you go left - you're probably meant to go right). Start of crux is about ~6 ft from the last piton.

Left of piton 4 in corner crack: Placed a Bomber #2 - I think I should have been to the right of the piton but was still left. Didn't bother traversing to the right to clip the piton (must have been slightly off route)

After that I continued up the crack - didn't realize that I should have bailed to the left on the ledge with the two anchor pitons (sticking up from the flat ground) but continued In the crack for about 6-7 feet. There was a placement for a ~#3 ish but didn't bring one, Instead placed a #.3 and topped out.

On anchor - extended it as much as I could - like a good 5-6 ft or so - and it was not close to enough. Probably needed 7 ft worth of extension. Anyways, definitely possible to top rope, but your rope will drag a bit on the sandstone. Jan 13, 2019