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Routes in Sand Dunes

Clairvoyance S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Fragments of Floyd S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Gratitude S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Jimmy Durante S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Kibosch Buttress T,S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Leopard Skin T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Leopard's Tail T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Little Miss Demeanor S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mack's Rush T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Stepping Out T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Stranger Than Friction S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Thousand Pints of Lite S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Twist and Shout S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
What's New Pussycat? S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Will's Rush T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Ron Olevsky
Page Views: 3,964 total, 43/month
Shared By: Julian Smith on Apr 30, 2010
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

This is a great, short route that can be found almost at the top of the access gully that is found on the left hand side of the Sand Dunes Crag. In 70 feet, it combines a little bit of slab and crack climbing, past 4 fixed pins. Take a little bit of medium sized gear along too so the run-out is not so bad. To start, look for a fixed pin at the base of a right facing, arching dihedral. To your right will be a route called Little Miss Demeaner, which is 5.10-. So, Twist and Shout should look a little easier to climb.
Work your way up the opening moves, using the dihedral for some holds, until you encounter a slabby crux that forces you a bit out on the face. Great climbing continues to the top.

Location

This route is the last one that is encountered as you ascend the approach gully, which is located on the left hand side of the Sand Dunes crag. It is on your right, almost at the top of the gully. Look for a fixed pin that is about 10' off the deck.

Protection

Mostly quickly draws will be all you need, but take a bit of medium sized gear too, if you want to cut down on the run-out between the fixed gear.

Photos

Andy Novak
Golden, Co
Andy Novak   Golden, Co
Really fun route! But, not for the budding 5.7 leader. There are some minor run-outs even with the supplemental trad pro. Adding a bolt/pin down low before the current 1st pin would be good IMO. Kinda seems like the route is unnecessarily run-out with the current fixed gear, but I guess that's Ron's style. TR without leading is possible. Apr 3, 2017
Thumer
SLC, UT
  5.7
Thumer   SLC, UT
  5.7
Fun route. I thought the 5.7 rating was fair. Used a #3 C4 between pins 1 and 2. If you are going to top rope it, you should use long runners to extend the anchor over the edge. Sep 11, 2016
taylormade
  5.9
taylormade  
  5.9
This was a fun route, but not exactly "sport". Placed a cam to protect the belayer/start (i.e. if I bailed before the first pin), and a nut above the first pin. Also, thought the crux was definitely tough for the grade, assuming you are meant to stay generally in the pin line. Finally, anchors weren't where I expected - they were up and left, away from the line of the pins. Topped out and found them. So - very fun and engaging climb, but not your usual "sport" line. Mar 29, 2015