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Sand Dunes

Utah > Southwest Utah > Saint George > Snow Canyon SP > Island In The Sky
Warning Access Issue: PRECIPITATION AND WET ROCK DetailsDrop down

Description

This area is home to a large number of routes from the 5.6 to 5.11b range. A large number of these routes are 2-5 pitches in length. A single 60M rope can be used to descend most routes. The multipitch routes start on the second tier, which is gained by the obvious gully (4th class) just to the left of the Indian Wall.

Here are a few of the best climbs: Clairvoyance 5.11b, Stepping Out 5.9, Leopard Skin 5.7.

Getting There

This area is directly across from the handicap parking pullout for the sand dunes. Park in the large parking lot (with bathrooms) and hike south on the road for 200ft until you are directly across from the gully.

Approach Beta from Bob Pringle:
The excellent and often used Todd Goss climbing guide book directs parties to take the paved bike path to access this climbing area from the large west canyon parking lot. Many visiting climbers are getting confused and have been found wandering about in the Enclosure area. The advice in the book of walking south 100 yards before turning east across a wash to the access the scree slope/gulley is correct but the pavement to walk along is the main road, not the bike path.

Routes from Left to Right

5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 11
Clairvoyance
Sport
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
 29
Twist and Shout
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 9
Little Miss Demeanor
Sport 2 pitches
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 6
Kibosch Buttress
Trad, Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 2
A Little Nightmare Music
Trad
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 17
Will's Rush
Trad 2 pitches
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
 2
Mack's Rush
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 25
Stepping Out
Trad, Sport 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
 1
Battle of Wills
Trad 2 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 14
Prestidigitator
Trad 5 pitches
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 2
Fragments from Floyd
Sport 3 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 49
Thousand Pints of Lite
Sport 3 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 119
Heroes Get Remembered
Sport 5 pitches
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 75
Gratitude
Sport 4 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 229
Leopard Skin
Trad, Sport 4 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
 1
Collaborative Conquest
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 26
Stranger Than Friction
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 62
What's New Pussycat?
Sport 2 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 4
Sandy Jean
Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
 4
Jimmy Durante
Sport 3 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
 1
Leopard's Tail
Trad, Sport 3 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Clairvoyance
 11
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Twist and Shout
 29
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c Sport
Little Miss Demeanor
 9
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport 2 pitches
Kibosch Buttress
 6
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad, Sport
A Little Nightmare Music
 2
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Will's Rush
 17
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad 2 pitches
Mack's Rush
 2
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R Trad
Stepping Out
 25
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, Sport 2 pitches
Battle of Wills
 1
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R Trad 2 pitches
Prestidigitator
 14
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 5 pitches
Fragments from Floyd
 2
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport 3 pitches
Thousand Pints of Lite
 49
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport 3 pitches
Heroes Get Remembered
 119
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport 5 pitches
Gratitude
 75
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport 4 pitches
Leopard Skin
 229
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, Sport 4 pitches
Collaborative Conquest
 1
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 Trad
Stranger Than Friction
 26
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
What's New Pussycat?
 62
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport 2 pitches
Sandy Jean
 4
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Jimmy Durante
 4
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R Sport 3 pitches
Leopard's Tail
 1
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 Trad, Sport 3 pitches

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Starts for Gratitude (left) and Leopard Skin (right)
[Hide Photo] Starts for Gratitude (left) and Leopard Skin (right)
High res of the route...
[Hide Photo] High res of the route...
The lovely rope ladder at the top of the gully!
[Hide Photo] The lovely rope ladder at the top of the gully!
This picture was taken just above the r in the sand dune area. I can't remember what the name of the route is but the pic is a var to a really cool Olevski climb. Thin crack up a steep face  5.10a ish
[Hide Photo] This picture was taken just above the r in the sand dune area. I can't remember what the name of the route is but the pic is a var to a really cool Olevski climb. Thin crack up a steep face 5.10a ish
My wife giving me sass as I'm explaining the next pitch on Intersection ledge.  I then proceed to (accidentally) run it out to the anchors of thousands pints of lite.
[Hide Photo] My wife giving me sass as I'm explaining the next pitch on Intersection ledge. I then proceed to (accidentally) run it out to the anchors of thousands pints of lite.
High Res of the Sand Dunes Area
[Hide Photo] High Res of the Sand Dunes Area

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] Hey we were at the Sand Dunes area this week and found a helmet. If you are missing one let me know! Mar 16, 2015
[Hide Comment] This Patagonia bag was sitting in the scree on the way up to the island wall. Call me if it is yours. I'm still in St. George. 801-319-7237
Patagonia Bag
Mar 12, 2017