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Routes in Turtle Wall

Actual Parchments, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Banana Dance S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Carapace S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Dancing Fox S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Director of Humor Affairs S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Endangered Species S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Farmers Dance S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Farmers Market S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Flying Dragon, The S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Gopherus Agassizi S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Knuckle Bones S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Lambada S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Largado S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Pinching Bird Shit S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Tortuga S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Trey Lizardos S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Turtle Soup S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Voodoo Economics S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Waltz, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
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Elevation: 3,091 ft
GPS: 37.15, -113.612 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 34,165 total · 228/month
Shared By: richard magill on Apr 5, 2006
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq
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Description

This is a nice crag that is easily accessible to St. George but has a bit more of a outdoor feeling to it than the Chuckawalla Wall.

The stone here is very similar to the Chuckwalla Wall - steep in many places with big pockets. A bit soft and sandy, but overall not too chossy and fun to climb on. All bolted and generally well-bolted.

Turtle has some steeper stone than Chuckwalla and a natural arch/cave with some really steep routes like Banana Dance (11+). There are routes here from 5.8 to 5.13.

Faces east so it gets morning sun and afternoon shade.

See here for an oblique, aerial view.

Getting There

Park at the Chuckwalla parking lot (about a mile north of St. George on Hwy 18). The parking lot is well-signed and hard to miss.

Then walk past Chuckawalla Wall and follow the well-signed trail about a mile into the desert. You will see Turtle Wall on your left as you walk north.

Don't follow the first sign that says "Turtle Wall" and heads off left. Continue straight until a sign that states "Climbing Access" and then head left across the wash.

19 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Turtle Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 128
Voodoo Economics
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 67
Endangered Species
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 162
Director of Humor Affairs
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 50
Lambada
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 59
Farmers Market
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 74
Pinching Bird Shit
Sport
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
 33
Trey Lizardos
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 124
Banana Dance
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 71
Tortuga
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 14
Largado
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 35
Dancing Fox
Sport
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
 5
Farmers Dance
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 7
The Waltz
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 17
The Actual Parchments
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Voodoo Economics
 128
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Endangered Species
 67
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Director of Humor Affairs
 162
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Lambada
 50
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Farmers Market
 59
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Pinching Bird Shit
 74
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Trey Lizardos
 33
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a Sport
Banana Dance
 124
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Tortuga
 71
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Largado
 14
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Dancing Fox
 35
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Farmers Dance
 5
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a Sport
The Waltz
 7
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
The Actual Parchments
 17
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
More Classic Climbs in Turtle Wall »

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Photos

EricW
Sandy, Ut
EricW   Sandy, Ut
More climbs in the 5.11-5.13 range in the cave that are not mentioned here. Had I climbed them, I would list them. I just saw the bolts. Jan 22, 2008
mattjbudd
West Valley, UT
mattjbudd   West Valley, UT
Check out some videos of this awesome crag.

Banana Dance
youtube.com/watch?v=x46ax7c…

Dancing Fox
youtube.com/watch?v=oSibk2b… Apr 5, 2010
Can't recommend this wall to anyone based on the rookie bolting job. Spinners, bolts in a sandy horizontal roof, poor bolt placement in general, and risk for decking on most of the cave routes if you blow any of the clips. This is all bolting 101 stuff that was somehow missed by the developers... Apr 3, 2016
Found 6 draws at Turtle this weekend, e-mail me if you'd like them back Jan 15, 2018
Taylor Spiegelberg
Lander & Sheridan, Wyoming
Taylor Spiegelberg   Lander & Sheridan, Wyoming
The cave has all been redone in Wave Bolts. I think there is still some hardware work to be done here, but it's totally rad and worth checking out. Banana Dance alone is pure fun and well done in terms of hardware. Theres a fixed first draw to make cleaning safer. Thanks to whoever is working on this! Feb 11, 2018

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