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Routes in Turtle Wall

Actual Parchments, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Banana Dance S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Carapace S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Dancing Fox S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Director of Humor Affairs S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Endangered Species S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Farmers Dance S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Farmers Market S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Flying Dragon, The S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Gopherus Agassizi S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Knuckle Bones S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Lambada S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Largado S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Pinching Bird Shit S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Tortuga S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Trey Lizardos S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Turtle Soup S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Voodoo Economics S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Waltz, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
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Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: J. Visser
Page Views: 1,484 total · 11/month
Shared By: richard magill on Mar 30, 2007
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Description

A generally pretty decent route, probably deserves 2 stars, but maybe not. The climbing is not very continuous - it is mostly very easy with one hard move between the first and second bolt.

All the same, I found it to be kind of enjoyable and worthwhile.

Location

This route is 2 routes right of Voodoo Economics, a much-chalked 5.8. Between Voodoo and Endangered Species is a 5.11a.

Protection

4 bolts to anchors

Photos

jeffozozo
santa clara, utah
  5.10d
jeffozozo   santa clara, utah
  5.10d
The blank section in the middle is hard. Good footwork helps, but you need nerves of steel to pull on that chalked up slopey pocket. Nov 14, 2015
Matthew Williams
Holladay, UT
  5.10d
Matthew Williams   Holladay, UT
  5.10d
Couple bolts are spinning (including the first one) - tried to tighten them but didn't have much luck, not sure what was going on but somebody with more experience would be able to figure it out. Nov 19, 2017
Zak Munro
VT,CO, Bar Harbor ME
 
Zak Munro   VT,CO, Bar Harbor ME
 
Second the tricky middle section. Also helps to be tall in order to clip the draw before making the move. Jan 29, 2018

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