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The Actual Parchments
5.13a YDS 7c+ French 29 Ewbanks IX+ UIAA 29 ZA E6 6c British
Avg: 3 from 32
votes
Routes in Turtle Wall
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Actual Parchments, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Banana Dance S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Carapace S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Dancing Fox S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Director of Humor Affairs S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Down to Durf S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Endangered Species S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Farmers Dance S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Farmers Market S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Flying Dragon, The S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Gopherus Agassizi S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Knuckle Bones S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Lambada S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Largado S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Pinching Bird Shit S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Shut Up Man S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Tortuga S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Trey Lizardos S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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Turtle Soup S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Voodoo Economics S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Waltz, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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| Type: | Sport, 50 ft (15 m) |
| FA: | Todd Perkins, 1995 |
| Page Views: | 5,844 total · 30/month |
| Shared By: | B Haus on Nov 26, 2008 |
| Admins: | Perin Blanchard, GRK, D Crane |
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Access Issue: PRECIPITATION AND WET ROCK
Details
The sandstone here is easily damaged when wet. Please allow at least 24-48 hours before climbing after any precipitation. If the ground is at all damp, please do not climb on any local sandstone. Consider nearby options on basalt, limestone, granite, or plastic instead.
Description
As with almost every other route on this wall, The Actual Parchments offers an incredibly fun challange over steep sandstone terrain with varied moves, and of course, lots of chances to fall off... This route starts with a sharp and difficult pocket-pulling boulder problem (V4 or 5) past 3 bolts to huge jugs that make this route reasonable.
I stick clipped the second bolt, which mabe a good idea due to the boulder behind you if you fall.
Rest a bit then do the final huge deadpoint to a crimp (redpoint crux V4) and enjoy easy jugs up and left to the top of Director of Humor Affairs. Fun outing on good rock.
I stick clipped the second bolt, which mabe a good idea due to the boulder behind you if you fall.
Rest a bit then do the final huge deadpoint to a crimp (redpoint crux V4) and enjoy easy jugs up and left to the top of Director of Humor Affairs. Fun outing on good rock.
Location
On the left side of the Turtle Wall, this line follows the left two of the steepest routes to link up with Director of Humor Affairs (5.11a)
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