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Routes in Turtle Wall

Actual Parchments, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Banana Dance S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Carapace S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Dancing Fox S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Director of Humor Affairs S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Endangered Species S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Farmers Dance S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Farmers Market S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Flying Dragon, The S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Gopherus Agassizi S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Knuckle Bones S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Lambada S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Largado S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Pinching Bird Shit S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Tortuga S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Trey Lizardos S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Turtle Soup S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Voodoo Economics S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Waltz, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
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Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Todd Perkins, 1995
Page Views: 3,366 total · 29/month
Shared By: Ben Schmitt on Nov 26, 2008
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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17 Opinions

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Description [Suggest Change]

As with almost every other route on this wall, The Actual Parchments offers an incredibly fun challange over steep sandstone terrain with varied moves, and of course, lots of chances to fall off... This route starts with a sharp and difficult pocket-pulling boulder problem (V4 or 5) past 3 bolts to huge jugs that make this route reasonable.
I stick clipped the second bolt, which mabe a good idea due to the boulder behind you if you fall.
Rest a bit then do the final huge deadpoint to a crimp (redpoint crux V4) and enjoy easy jugs up and left to the top of Director of Humor Affairs. Fun outing on good rock.

Location [Suggest Change]

On the left side of the Turtle Wall, this line follows the left two of the steepest routes to link up with Director of Humor Affairs (5.11a)

Protection [Suggest Change]

Nice bolts, 7-9 depending on how many you clip. to chain anchors

Photos

healyc
 
healyc  
 
One cool part about this route is the opportunity to top it out like you would a boulder problem. when you get to the chains, clip and then climb past them continuing to the top out. its not really that hard and once you're up there just untie, toss the rope over the edge and walk off. i guess if you need to clean the route then its a different story. Jan 30, 2014
ben jammin
Moab, UT
ben jammin   Moab, UT
Did the intermediate crimp before the pocket on the upper crux break? Looks like it was used to get the right hand to the 3 finger pocket before but it wasn't there today... Jan 4, 2015
Spencer Weiler
Salt Lake city
Spencer Weiler   Salt Lake city
I tried the route for the first time a couple months ago, and the only hold I saw that was available on the upper crux for the left hand between the gaston crimp and the pocket was a sandy, twinkie looking, fragile pinch hold. It wasn't chalked or looked like it had been used like most of the rest of the route. After looking at a couple of the videos online, it does appear like a hold in that area broke, leaving the sandy pinch as the remaining option. Can't comment on whether its more/less difficult now, but its still doable. Jan 8, 2015
We were visiting St.George and my kid climbed it. Start is indeed bouldery, but hard part is short. Locals warned us that the crux hold broke, but for the kid it was not a problem at all, could be different story for adults.

youtu.be/9RWEq_MtrjE Mar 20, 2015
Worked on this for a few days. There's a pretty mediocre hold left where it looks like the crimp used to be. It still goes, but it's now a significantly harder boulder problem than anything on the bottom section (at least for me). However, the whole thing felt more natural to me if instead of going up to the gaston from the big hueco, I moved straight left for one move to the large jug on human affairs. From there I could make one more move up and right and continue on the same bolt line. Really only climbing 2-3 feet left of the original line, it felt like this might be the way to go from now on... Apr 19, 2015
Jeremy Steck
Salt Lake City, UT
 
Jeremy Steck   Salt Lake City, UT
 
The hold up there did certainly break. As of late fall 2014, the original crimp was gone, but a fragile "twinkie" hold remained. This is now gone as well (11/15) I believe the hold is sitting under the route on the small shelf. Now, it still goes, but I'm going to say that its a fair bit harder and probably no longer 13a. It looks like some of the twinkie hold is still there in the video posted, but what is left now is just a sandy sloper. The remaining hold looks fairly stable and could probably be restored by chipping the back a bit and shoring it up with some glue if someone was inclined. Nov 10, 2015

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