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Routes in Turtle Wall

Actual Parchments, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Banana Dance S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Carapace S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Dancing Fox S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Director of Humor Affairs S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Endangered Species S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Farmers Dance S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Farmers Market S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Flying Dragon, The S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Gopherus Agassizi S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Knuckle Bones S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Lambada S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Largado S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Pinching Bird Shit S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Tortuga S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Trey Lizardos S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Turtle Soup S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Voodoo Economics S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Waltz, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Type: Sport, 55 ft
FA: Todd Perkins Jorge Visser
Page Views: 1,304 total · 14/month
Shared By: Ben Schmitt on Mar 26, 2010
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Description

This route is the parchments big brother. Start with the same two bolts of the Actual Parchments, fighting through strenuous sharp pockets and crimps (V6 or 7) up and left to a hard throw to a jug. Get a couple of shakes, and launch up and right using a pocket, multiple bumps of some heneous slopers and finger locks, to a big throw to a flat one handed ledge. Swim your way up the last 10 feet with big throws between big jugs to the top.
good, hard climbing.

Location

on the overhanging 40 degree wall next to the parchments.

Protection

7 bolts to station.

Photos

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I have not been on the route but I have been sizing it up for an attempt. I believe a key hold has broken off near the end of the crux.(Disclaimer: I didn't break it) Before breaking it was always ticked and i think it is the flat "jug" the description refers too. (from the ground it previously looked like a large slot.) Can anyone confirm this? It seems that with the hold gone it makes the last throw about a foot longer. Any beta on the hold/route would be appreciated. Jan 25, 2011

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