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Routes in Turtle Wall

Actual Parchments, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Banana Dance S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Carapace S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Dancing Fox S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Director of Humor Affairs S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Endangered Species S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Farmers Dance S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Farmers Market S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Flying Dragon, The S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Gopherus Agassizi S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Knuckle Bones S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Lambada S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Largado S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Pinching Bird Shit S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Tortuga S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Trey Lizardos S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Turtle Soup S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Voodoo Economics S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Waltz, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
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Type: Sport, 45 ft
FA: J. Visser
Page Views: 1,465 total · 12/month
Shared By: grk10vq on Mar 22, 2009
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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This is a short, but sweet, perplexing route on the far right end of the Turtle Wall. Hang on tight to the starting moves climbing up a few feet to some comfortable and welcoming huecos. From these huecos climb through crimps (read: you'll have to let go of the undercling) to a committing and intense crux. Break free of this dilemma and stay true to the nail biting slab finish. There are many "M"'s in the word commitment, this route will add a few extra.


Four bolts plus chains.


Turtle Soup is easily found by walking north along the base of the Turtle Wall until you reach the large cave. Turtle Soup is the last face climb before entering the cave.


Darren Knezek
Darren Knezek  
Here's a little picture of what you might feel like, if you get on this one expecting a soft .10b.

May 18, 2009
20 kN

20 kN    
Maybe I'm missing something but I onsighted the .11d and both .11cs right to the right of this route and I fell twice on the OS attempt of this one. I'm going to go ahead and guess something broke off. .11d compared to the .11s around the corner IMO. Maybe I'm just blind. Apr 6, 2016
Laura Bauer
Laura Bauer  
Solid 10b. Low crux, easy slab on the top half Oct 25, 2016
Bouldery start leads to big, balancy moves on crimpers, then slabby climbing. Sand bagged at 10b, probably closer to 10c/10d. Feb 10, 2017
Garrett C
Garrett C   SL, UT
This climb felt pretty awkward... maybe I had the wrong beta. Mar 21, 2018

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