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Routes in Turtle Wall

Actual Parchments, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Banana Dance S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Carapace S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Dancing Fox S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Director of Humor Affairs S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Endangered Species S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Farmers Dance S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Farmers Market S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Flying Dragon, The S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Gopherus Agassizi S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Knuckle Bones S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Lambada S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Largado S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Pinching Bird Shit S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Tortuga S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Trey Lizardos S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Turtle Soup S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Voodoo Economics S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Waltz, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Type: Sport, 30 ft
FA: J. Visser
Page Views: 881 total · 8/month
Shared By: grk10vq on Mar 22, 2009
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Description

Gopherus Agassizi is the "moderate" test piece at the Turtle Wall. Rated as only .10c in the Goss Guide, Gopherus Agassizi has stumped the toughest of hardmen. Calling this route sequential would be an understatement. Gopherus Agassizi is basically a 30 foot boulder problem with bolts. An extremely thin start leads to a one, maybe two, shallow pockets. Clip the first bolt and tell yourself you can make it to the second. From here, pull out your keys to unlock the crux or maybe just pray for an answer. Finish, or for lack of better words, fight, your way to the close yet distant chains.

An Onsight of this route (low traffic leaves no chalk) is like betting on a horse with no legs.

Unless the entire face of this route fell off since the fa, its more close to a .11 than Michael Jackson is to a come back...(too soon?)

Location

Gopherus Agassizi sits on the left in the middle of the Turtle Wall's most shortest face. It is the only route currently at the wall with three bolts.

Protection

Three bolts plus chains.

Photos

Stephanie Patrick
Oakland, CA
 
Stephanie Patrick   Oakland, CA
 
Ha. Description Is spot on. We were definitely thrown for a loop when we wanted to jump on an easy warm up Apr 27, 2012
KipHenrie
Farmington, utah
  5.11b
KipHenrie   Farmington, utah
  5.11b
We got on this "warm up" 10c and ended up spending at least an hour figuring it out. Balancy and cerebral for sure. The crux is the first 3 bolts. The good news is that you can do it and its fun working it. You can unlock the Gopherus Agassizi's horcrux. Mar 11, 2012
I watched a group of traveling climbers fall a dozen times while flailing up this route. The same group had been onsighting 12's all day. Apr 1, 2009