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Routes in Turtle Wall

Actual Parchments, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Banana Dance S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Carapace S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Dancing Fox S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Director of Humor Affairs S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Endangered Species S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Farmers Dance S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Farmers Market S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Flying Dragon, The S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Gopherus Agassizi S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Knuckle Bones S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Lambada S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Largado S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Pinching Bird Shit S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Tortuga S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Trey Lizardos S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Turtle Soup S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Voodoo Economics S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Waltz, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Type: Sport, 30 ft
FA: Tupper and Tupper
Page Views: 1,221 total, 9/month
Shared By: richard magill on Apr 5, 2006
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

Fun route with a tough move that may be a bit cranker for the rating. The crux is between the first two bolts with some slopiness in pockets.

The route is pretty much vertical in nature, fun climbing throughout, although the crux is much harder than the rest of the route.

Location

Route is pretty much in the middle of the wall. If you go to the arch/cave with Banana Dance in it, go left from here to the first well-chalked route. The route starts in a big chalky hueco.

Protection

4 bolts to anchors

Photos

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Beau Skelton
Palm Desert, UT
 
Beau Skelton   Palm Desert, UT
 
Very tricky 10C. Coming from Montana this felt more like 10D/11A. The dyno at the top is super heady.. If you are a fan of awkward moves and unicycles this route is for you. May 20, 2015
Marius vanderMerwe
Saint George, UT
Marius vanderMerwe   Saint George, UT
Finger-pulley-poppin'-crimp-fest. So be warned and plant those feet very carefully. Sandbagged at 10c. Oct 16, 2013
javi
saint george area
javi   saint george area
Crimpin. N pimpin Jun 12, 2012
Nathan Marsh
st. george utah
  5.10c/d
Nathan Marsh   st. george utah
  5.10c/d
this route is tougher than it looks, but felt like a solid 10(tougher than some of the other 10's, but did not feel like an 11). Clark is absolutely right. there is a bit of a run out to the top. and has a tendency to cause people to flip (saw two fall and flip) May 5, 2012
Nicholas Yaskoff
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.11-
Nicholas Yaskoff   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.11-
There was a group of about six people at the wall when I was climbing this route and everyone agreed that the route felt more like 11-. It's a fun route that requires good foot work and a fair amount of crimp strength. Don't feel bad if you get on the route and feel flummoxed about what to do, if you work the route a little it will all become clear. Jan 3, 2012
Clark Aegerter  
5.10d
Great climb, but not straight forward like other 10c's; This one seems harder than a 10c. not as many pockets as you would think, in our guide book it said that it was a pocket hold route. Think more along the lines of small crimps, a few pinchs, small crimpy under cling at the top along with what looks like a huge jug but it is not!! so do not throw to it thinking it will solve your problems, get feet high enough to set your hands on it. once you get to the ledge above that happy happy day. FYI:last bolt is run out a ways, you got 3 bolts then the bolts at the top nothing between the 3rd and top. Nov 28, 2010
grego
SLC, Utah
grego   SLC, Utah
Fun climb, but for me this was definatly harder than a 10c! Jan 7, 2010
EricW
Sandy, Ut
 
EricW   Sandy, Ut
 
Fun climb. Worth doing if at the wall. Jan 22, 2008