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Routes in Turtle Wall

Actual Parchments, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Banana Dance S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Carapace S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Dancing Fox S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Director of Humor Affairs S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Endangered Species S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Farmers Dance S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Farmers Market S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Flying Dragon, The S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Gopherus Agassizi S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Knuckle Bones S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Lambada S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Largado S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Pinching Bird Shit S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Tortuga S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Trey Lizardos S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Turtle Soup S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Voodoo Economics S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Waltz, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Todd Perkins, 1995
Page Views: 4,650 total, 33/month
Shared By: richard magill on Apr 5, 2006
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

Really fun jug haul - steep with big holds.

Starts with a steep rightward traverse on good holds to a huge horn. The crux is right down near the first and second bolts.

Location

This is the furthest left route on the crag. A nice looking 5.13 is just to the right of this route.

Protection

5 bolts to chain anchors
Beau Skelton
Palm Desert, UT
 
Beau Skelton   Palm Desert, UT
 
This climb took me back to the Red River Gorge.. Heady first clip (if you don't stick clip.) Very fun moves on an overhung wall. Pretty much a jug haul, My personal consensus would be more along the lines of hard 10C/easy 10D. Classic for the area in my opinion, and definitely worth checking out. May 20, 2015
jeffozozo
santa clara, utah
  5.10c/d PG13
jeffozozo   santa clara, utah
  5.10c/d PG13
Two thoughts: First, if you have short folks in your party, ( 5 feet or less) they will need a boost to get to the first hold. Second, the first clip is easy to get to -- you can just campus out to it, and if you can heel hook, it is not hard to clip it. But if you fell, trying to clip it, you could get seriously hurt. Stick clip is a good idea. It is a super fun climb! Mar 9, 2015
Gordon Larsen
St. George, Utah
Gordon Larsen   St. George, Utah
The second bolt has been replaced once again. It is a large glue-in bolt and is bomber. A must do everytime one climbs at Turtle Wall. Oct 5, 2013
mattjbudd
West Valley, UT
  5.10d
mattjbudd   West Valley, UT
  5.10d
If you liked this route try Lambada. It's much better, and a more solid 5.11a. It contains the best part of Director of Humor affairs, but it has even a better crux on the variation. Apr 3, 2010
Bad Sock Puppet
  5.10d
Bad Sock Puppet  
  5.10d
5.10c-5.11a. I'll let someone who's at that level decide since the difference isn't as clear anymore. The truth is it's easy and it's a great warm up if you're going to hop on anything inside the cave. Dec 20, 2009
oliver
  5.10c
oliver  
  5.10c
Great Route and pumpy but not 11a. If I were to rate it I would say maybe 10c. Jan 11, 2009
Skyler Penrod
  5.11a
Skyler Penrod  
  5.11a
Awesome climb. Move quick and avoid the pump. Overhanging exposed climbing with large jugs lead to vertical or less than vertical rock with balancy moves on okay holds. My first .11a. Sep 7, 2008
EricW
Sandy, Ut
 
EricW   Sandy, Ut
 
Great climb, but rating might be a little soft...but I will take it. I did not notice any loose holds and I climbed it twice and my wife did also. Great climb. Get on it! Jan 22, 2008
tenesmus  
 
definitely easier than those .10's on the middle of the wall. Great warmup. May 20, 2007
Petsfed
Laramie, WY
Petsfed   Laramie, WY
Biggest holds imaginable, with climbing very reminiscent of the cave in the gym. Some of the jugs are loose though, so test and climb with care. Dec 28, 2006