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Routes in Turtle Wall

Actual Parchments, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Banana Dance S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Carapace S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Dancing Fox S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Director of Humor Affairs S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Endangered Species S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Farmers Dance S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Farmers Market S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Flying Dragon, The S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Gopherus Agassizi S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Knuckle Bones S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Lambada S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Largado S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Pinching Bird Shit S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Tortuga S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Trey Lizardos S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Turtle Soup S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Voodoo Economics S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Waltz, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Visser and Perkins
Page Views: 1,783 total, 13/month
Shared By: richard magill on Apr 5, 2006 with updates
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

The attraction in this route is all in the first 15 feet of climbing. The route starts in beautiful overhanging huecoes to a powerful crux just after the first bolt. The crux involves a tricky sidepull throw to the left - a big span. Then up to a jug and the second clip.

After you clip the second bolt, the angle eases off and the route gets a bit sandy and unremarkable. But this route is worth doing just for the great climbing up to the second bolt.

Location

On the left side of the crag, just around the corner from the steep wall that holds Director of Humor Affairs. Look for a route that starts up on big chalked huecos - fairly obvious

Protection

6 bolts to anchors

Photos

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6 bolts to anchors, not 4 bolts :)
Counting from the ground you can only see 4 bolts

I think the original bolts were still there(4) but 2 more were added. Sep 14, 2015
Shawn Heath
Forchheim, Germany
  5.12a
Shawn Heath   Forchheim, Germany  
  5.12a
I also deviated from what's in the video. I placed a left hand in the small pocket where he has a right, then slotted the fingers of my right hand into the crack immediately above the pocket, then made the lunge to the jug at the 2nd bolt. Lief's idea is nice but unfortunately (or maybe fortunately, who knows) I didn't notice the block when I managed to onsight this (my first .12a onsight!) :) Mar 3, 2014
Leify Guy
  5.12a
Leify Guy  
  5.12a
Unlike the video, I did the crux by doing a gaston bump on the block to get into the side pull, it felt like it made it a slightly easier and less dynamic move... in total I thoroughly enjoyed the route, the bottom is just pumpy enough to make the rest of the route a race to the chains Jan 4, 2014