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Routes in Turtle Wall

Actual Parchments, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Banana Dance S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Carapace S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Dancing Fox S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Director of Humor Affairs S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Endangered Species S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Farmers Dance S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Farmers Market S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Flying Dragon, The S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Gopherus Agassizi S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Knuckle Bones S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Lambada S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Largado S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Pinching Bird Shit S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Tortuga S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Trey Lizardos S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Turtle Soup S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Voodoo Economics S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Waltz, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
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Type: Sport, 35 ft
FA: M. Tupper
Page Views: 1,702 total · 12/month
Shared By: Zeb Kenyon on Mar 26, 2007
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

Fun jug haul. The crux is staying on once making the transition after the second bolt to the near horizontal roof. Save some juice for the last few clips.

Location

Far right side of the Turtle Cave closest to the outermost edge.

Protection

5 bolts to chains. (Chains look a little loose).

Photos

hEatchel
Salt Lake City, Utah
 
hEatchel   Salt Lake City, Utah
 
really fun route ! after the last bolt getting to chains is so scary !!!! maybe only 5.6 stemming but if you fell, oh man. Has this route been done without stemming to the other side of cave ? Mar 1, 2009
I believe the last bolt is missing which makes it a bit more of a head game, but i have seen it finished without stemming. Dec 20, 2009
are you supposed to stem at the top, or is the route made to not stem? Jun 26, 2013
Gordon Larsen
St. George, UT
Gordon Larsen   St. George, UT
The chains have recently been replaced and our now excellent. The top bolt was also replaced by a Petzl glue-in and is much better. Fun route. Oct 5, 2013
phxDarren  
 
This route is super fun. The holds get better and better as you climb, just keep going. The hangers toward the bottom spin but I saw a couple climbers take top rope falls on them.

Video of Farmer's Market
youtube.com/watch?v=vySCwhK… Oct 20, 2013
Jake Croft
Tucson, Az
 
Jake Croft   Tucson, Az
 
Amazing route, one of my favorite for its grade. As of march 31 2014 the third bolt appeared to be pretty loose, if it ripped you would likely take a ground fall so don't lead this unless you're comfortable with 11c. I'm not a local so I won't be around to replace this, it would be awesome if somebody checked that out and replaced it- until then this is a spicy lead. Was very relieved to clip the new glue in. Beautiful route, fun jug pulling, would highly reccomend Apr 1, 2014
David Adams  
 
Went out today and checked the bolt out. It was indeed half pulled out of the hole and spinning. Pulled the old one and replaced it with one of the new climbtech legacy bolts so it should be good to go for a long time. Totally safe and super fun so go out and get it. Jul 23, 2014
jeffozozo
santa clara, utah
  5.11c
jeffozozo   santa clara, utah
  5.11c
This climb feels like a gym climb. The movement is so cool, it is almost as if it was planned. The protection is good, and yes you CAN do it without stemming on the other side, but it is so much fun to straddle that gap... Mar 9, 2015
Garrett C
SL, UT
  5.11c
Garrett C   SL, UT
  5.11c
Crux to me was getting to the chains. Was thin, sandy, and full of bad slopers. Didn't do the stem, but partner did and it seemed easier. Very fun moves, great route. May 1, 2017

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