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Routes in Turtle Wall

Actual Parchments, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Banana Dance S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Carapace S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Dancing Fox S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Director of Humor Affairs S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Endangered Species S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Farmers Dance S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Farmers Market S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Flying Dragon, The S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Gopherus Agassizi S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Knuckle Bones S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Lambada S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Largado S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Pinching Bird Shit S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Tortuga S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Trey Lizardos S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Turtle Soup S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Voodoo Economics S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Waltz, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Perkins
Page Views: 2,621 total, 20/month
Shared By: richard magill on Mar 30, 2007
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

A 4-star route with a name like that? It might be reaching a bit to call it 4-stars, but I do think this is one of the best routes at this crag. I don't get the name - I didn't do any pinches on the route, and definitely didn't encounter any bird droppings.

This is a steep 40 ft route in the cave, overhanging 7 or 8 feet.

Starts out interesting right off the deck, and has a really continuous series of overhanging moves out to the anchors. Lots of jugs to keep the pump down, but there is a thuggish crux about halfway up.

Location

In the back left side of the cave.

Protection

4 bolts to chains - and an attentive belayer! There is a rock ramp in the back of the cave that could be a little dangerous if you have out too much slack.
Hyrum j. C
St george, ut
  5.11c
Hyrum j. C   St george, ut
  5.11c
There is 2 or 3 spots to heel hook with the right foot at the crux. If you hit the higher one it makes the crux easy. My friend dave found it. Apr 8, 2016
lech
  5.11c
lech  
  5.11c
A knee bar made this easy, allowing me to move static through the bad holds. Feb 23, 2016
I found it a lot easier at the crux to hit the right hand crimp first and than hit the left hand sloper Jun 26, 2013
Gordon Larsen
St. George, Utah
Gordon Larsen   St. George, Utah
This climb reflects what is fun about sport climbing. You spot a featured overhanging section of cool looking rock and you just want to see if you can climb it. This one will spit you off if you hesitate at the crux! Mar 2, 2013
Bad Sock Puppet
  5.11c
Bad Sock Puppet  
  5.11c
Not as cool as Banana Dance but definitely deserves to be climbed. The crux is between the second and third clip where you encounter a sloper and a crimp on an otherwise jug haul. The top hold is pretty sandy. Dec 20, 2009