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Routes in Turtle Wall

Actual Parchments, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Banana Dance S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Carapace S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Dancing Fox S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Director of Humor Affairs S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Endangered Species S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Farmers Dance S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Farmers Market S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Flying Dragon, The S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Gopherus Agassizi S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Knuckle Bones S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Lambada S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Largado S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Pinching Bird Shit S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Tortuga S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Trey Lizardos S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Turtle Soup S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Voodoo Economics S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Waltz, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: T. Perkins, J. Visser
Page Views: 5,740 total · 53/month
Shared By: grk10vq on Mar 13, 2009
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


114 Opinions

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Description

Big holds and even bigger moves describe this athletic route. Banana Dance climbs an ever steepening overhang through jugs and deep edges. Lunge, throw, pull, and pump your way up this one.

Wear your tighty whities or tape accordingly.

Location

Banana Dance is located directly in the middle of the wall on the right side of the large cave.

Protection

Seven draws + anchors
Taylor Spiegelberg
Lander & Sheridan, Wyoming
 
Taylor Spiegelberg   Lander & Sheridan, Wyoming
 
February 2018 this route has been redone in Wavebolts! Could use some steel lower off biners if you make it out here. Fixed first draw to aid in cleaning. Thanks locals! Stupid fun climb. Feb 11, 2018
Mike Womack
Los Angeles, CA
Mike Womack   Los Angeles, CA
As of late December '17, 2nd bolt is still missing. Anybody out there that does local maintenance I can give a few bucks to? Many of the other bolts at turtle were in nasty shape as well... Dec 28, 2017
Garrett C
SL, UT
Garrett C   SL, UT
As of 4/30/17, second bolt is still missing. Falling before clipping the 3rd bolt would result in a deck for sure. May 1, 2017
The second bolt on this route popped out last Thursday, and without it decking is fairly inevitable if you fall before clipping the third bolt. Apr 1, 2017
B Roth
st george, ut
B Roth   st george, ut
Adding a stainless steel quick link is a bad idea unless the chain, hanger, and bolt are stainless as well. The mixture of stainless and plated steel will cause galvanic corrosion and the anchor will likely start rusting the next time it gets wet. Sep 30, 2014
jeffozozo
santa clara, utah
  5.11d
jeffozozo   santa clara, utah
  5.11d
This route is truly amazing. The holds are big and positive, the bolts are close together and the movement is unique and totally fun. The holds stay big after you turn the lip, so you can rest up a little before you go for the chains. The comment about clipping the small chains is true. would anyone object if I added a quick-link to that right hand side? Aug 28, 2014
Tyler Needham
Salt Lake City, Utah
  5.11d
Tyler Needham   Salt Lake City, Utah
  5.11d
Amazing route! Hard moves in the beginning section to the third bolt and clipping those tiny anchor chains was an enormous pain. Mar 16, 2013
jeffozozo
santa clara, utah
  5.11d
jeffozozo   santa clara, utah
  5.11d
nice video, matt. Oct 1, 2010
mattjbudd
West Valley, UT
  5.11c
mattjbudd   West Valley, UT
  5.11c
Absolutely an amazing route! I love the sequencing! I felt it was a little soft for a 5.11d. Nothing seemed too hard.

youtube.com/watch?v=x46ax7c… Apr 4, 2010
Bad Sock Puppet
  5.11d
Bad Sock Puppet  
  5.11d
A truly sick climb! I thought the beginning was the hardest part with the crux somewhere around the third clip. Big throws from jug to jug. Lots of heelhooks makes for good rests, plus with a bomber hold everytime you need one you should send this easily. Dec 19, 2009

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