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Routes in Turtle Wall

Actual Parchments, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Banana Dance S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Carapace S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Dancing Fox S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Director of Humor Affairs S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Endangered Species S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Farmers Dance S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Farmers Market S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Flying Dragon, The S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Gopherus Agassizi S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Knuckle Bones S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Lambada S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Largado S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Pinching Bird Shit S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Tortuga S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Trey Lizardos S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Turtle Soup S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Voodoo Economics S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Waltz, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: G. Larsen, T. Ricks
Page Views: 1,005 total, 9/month
Shared By: grk10vq on Mar 13, 2009
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Whats going on here?

A very strenuous and committing series of moves marks the start of this route. Trey Lizardos climbs a difficult 10 feet of rock into some relieving side pulls, slopers and user friendly edges.

Start off-balance with a good side-pull. Head up and left past a few bolt holes ignoring their prior significance. Look left, look right, look up (clench your teeth here) and choose your own adventure-an undercling or flat edge being the goal. Continue climbing to the first bolt and search out a rest to the right. Climb further past more bolts and work through a few tricky moves and a handful of awkward holds. Finish on some soft and dirty rock clipping the anchors at the top.

Where is this again?


Trey Lizardos is the first and tallest route to the left of the middle main wall. It sits directly to the right of Tortuga.

What am i going to need?

Five draws + anchors.

  • this route has a first bolt that comes and goes, a sick clip or a lizard with draw dragging capabilities is strongly advised

Photos

Gordon Larsen
St. George, Utah
Gordon Larsen   St. George, Utah
I am not sure why that first bolt gets taken off, but I have replaced it a couple of times. It was intact as of last week. March 2013 Mar 2, 2013
Jeremy Steck
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.11d
Jeremy Steck   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.11d
As of 12/11, the first bolt is there and all of the others are in good condition. Dec 12, 2011