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Routes in Turtle Wall

Actual Parchments, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Banana Dance S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Carapace S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Dancing Fox S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Director of Humor Affairs S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Endangered Species S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Farmers Dance S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Farmers Market S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Flying Dragon, The S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Gopherus Agassizi S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Knuckle Bones S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Lambada S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Largado S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Pinching Bird Shit S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Tortuga S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Trey Lizardos S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Turtle Soup S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Voodoo Economics S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Waltz, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Type: Sport, 25 ft
FA: Todd Perkins
Page Views: 1,626 total, 17/month
Shared By: grk10vq on Feb 6, 2010
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Description

Not much to look at and mildly uninspiring, Dancing Fox is 15 feet of intense climbing requiring lock offs, body tension, and picking good holds from bad. Choke during the crux sequence and the Dancing Fox turns into the clumsy hippo. Mimicing many problems at Moe's Valley, this route is just a little too tall for a pad. Named after numerous fox sightings, this sly little line is often empty and offers fun, dynamic moves.

Favoring most body types, grade consensus is varied. Either way The Dancing Fox remains solid just above and below it's grade. Long hard moves, a steady selection of pockets, and a mid-route impasse are all fine factors on this quick, steep tick.

Location

This is the first and shortest route on the left side of the cave. Its between Turtle Soup and Pinching Bird Shit.

Protection

Three bolts to a chain anchor.

Photos

Dustyn Vallies
  5.11c
Dustyn Vallies  
  5.11c
heads up, the 2nd bolt is hanging out of the rock. Jul 7, 2017
Josh Triplett
Bountiful, UT
  5.12a
Josh Triplett   Bountiful, UT
  5.12a
Really enjoyed this route, really steep but movement is fun and the crux sequence is an easy read, with probably more than one way to do it. It may be too straight forward for some, but the steepness makes the crux entertaining and you get to finish on what I felt were great holds. I agree that the crux goes between v3-v4 depending on your style. Like was said above, go for the On Sight!!! Jan 18, 2015
mattjbudd
West Valley, UT
  5.11c
mattjbudd   West Valley, UT
  5.11c
Nice boulder problem. It's an easy onsight! It contains 1 crux and its like a v3 or v4.

youtube.com/watch?v=oSibk2b… Apr 3, 2010
edwin
  5.12a
edwin  
  5.12a
This is a good project (or an onsight) if you like bouldering at Moe's Valley. Mar 18, 2010