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Areas in Sunset Alley

Abyss, The 0 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Alcove, The 0 / 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5
Alley, The 0 / 16 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 16
Blank Cave, The 0 / 11 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 11
Hop Garden 0 / 9 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 9
Elevation: 5,000 ft
GPS: 37.134, -113.844 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 36,441 total · 742/month
Shared By: Hyrum j. C on Sep 10, 2014
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq
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Description

Great canyon with an awesome view of ivins and red mountain. Great variety in difficulty (ranging from 5.8 to 5.14) The climbing here is great for climbers of all skill levels. On the right side of the canyon is some great grey limestone with coral tufts on it in various patches. first route on the right is a 5.8 then second is around 10b third around 10c/d and some harder ones and then some more tens. great quality climbs all!! A short hike along this wall and you will come to a small scramble that leads up into a slot canyon that is the abyss wall which is full of 5.10's. or keep following the wall past a bunch of climbs that look to be in the 11's range up to hop garden which is composed of some slabby looking stuff and an arete and then an overhanging area.
The left side of the canyon is a cave with a headwall which looks pretty intense. Probably a lot of 13's and 14's.

How To Get There

To get there go west on Sunset Blvrd till you leave town and it becomes the old highway. Keep going till you pass the Gunlock turnoff and then continue for 6.6 miles and take a right (just after you pass the 10 mile post) onto a decent dirtroad. then go 2.4 miles and take a right on the dirt road thats there (there should be a cairn on this turn) it looks small but it is actually just fine for a car. It goes for maybe half a mile and then you come to a parking spot, the trail heading north is easy to spot, hike along it for about 15 mins and you will get to the wall.

44 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Sunset Alley

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 46
Old Pine
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 51
Shits and Giggles
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 27
Family Affair
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 61
Sondance
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 26
Hop Rising
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 47
Super Fun
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 37
Pocket Line
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 17
Ball Bustin' Fun
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 53
Sunset Lanes
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 42
Three Pump Chump
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 35
Finally Legal
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 27
Hopsickle
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 43
It's a Good Life
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 19
Shell Shocked
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 14
Fun Pig
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Old Pine Alley
 46
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Shits and Giggles Alley
 51
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Family Affair Alley
 27
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Sondance Alley
 61
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Hop Rising Hop Garden
 26
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Super Fun Alcove
 47
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Pocket Line Alcove
 37
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Ball Bustin' Fun Alcove
 17
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Sunset Lanes Alley
 53
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Three Pump Chump Alley
 42
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Finally Legal Blank Cave
 35
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Hopsickle Hop Garden
 27
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
It's a Good Life Alley
 43
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Shell Shocked Alley
 19
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Fun Pig Blank Cave
 14
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
More Classic Climbs in Sunset Alley »

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Photos

Spencer Weiler
Salt Lake city
Spencer Weiler   Salt Lake city
The turnoff from old highway 89 is right after mile marker 10. The dirt road climbs fairly steeply and then flattens out at the top of the hill, which is where several spur roads appear. A cairn marks the correct right turn onto the discrete ATV sized road (ok for cars) that descends through trees east down to the small parking area. A great singletrack trail can be easily spotted here that continues the descent down the wash to the walls. 15 min or less to the cave from the parking. All the distances mentioned by hyrum are spot on. Feb 15, 2015
John Ehrig
Saint George, UT
John Ehrig   Saint George, UT
Please Help - Lost Shoes at Sunset Alley. Please text me at 925-216-1552 if you found a pair of size 34.5 Women's Mythos shoes at Sunset alley. Thanks! Nov 10, 2016
Ryan Weller
Long Beach, CA
Ryan Weller   Long Beach, CA
No sun reaches this crag in November as stated here and the Limestone Bible. The bible also has numerous inaccuracies on route length and number of bolts. The directions and maps are really rough. It does seem to include many inside jokes and personal insults that offer no help to the buyer. But a great crag, tons of good rock. Nov 27, 2016
Whoever was camping on the right past the turnoff to the final dirt road to the crag parking on Friday night, March 30 you left a still burning campfire with paper in the fire pit. According to others this was a couple with a small child or baby. This sort of thing is a great way to ruin a beautiful area and get the crag closed, put your camp fires all the way out or don’t start them. Apr 4, 2018

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