Elevation: 6,500 ft
GPS: 37.41, -113.537 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 50,065 total · 415/month
Shared By: B Roth on Jul 27, 2011
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane

Description

Tags with route names and grades have been put up Crawdad Canyon style on most of the routes so far. Not all have grades yet but armed with the info here and the tags you can be about 99% certain of which route your on. Also it seems that, baring a massive snowstorm, you'll be able to climb comfortably here all winter.

Notice:

There are currently around 60 or so established routes here. This area is relatively new and as such don't expect to find a lot of information here on mountain project yet as I'm more interested in route development than writing some pretty description about the route/area and posting inspiring pictures to go along with them. As time allows and I get more material I'll update the area. Until then if your interested pm me and i'll try and help you out.

History:

Pine Valley has seen little attention in the past. Several climbers have rapped in, climbed a few routes, and determined that it's not worth it. Several years ago a couple of local climbers got exited about it and put in a handful of sport and mixed gear routes. As the the vegetation below is thick, requiring lots of bushwacking, their approach to route development was to spot a line from the river, rap in and stop down the area, set the route and then climb out. Development ceased and has seen little activity since then.

In the spring of 2011,armed with clippers, a hand saw, and a lot of time, a trail was built which follows the cliff line. A walk down descent was found and a rope assist put in. After that route development began and is still in progress.

About:

Pine Valley is basalt climbing near a river with ponderosa pine. Mostly sport climbing with a handful of trad lines. This area has a lot more friction than the basalt at blackrocks and is mostly technical face climbing with routes up to 100 ft long. Cliff starts going into the shade around 2 pm and is fully shaded by around 4 pm. Temperatures are typically 15-20 degrees cooler than St George. There is also a good amount of potential for bouldering if one were to do some exploring.

The walls at pine valley from west to east are:
Unemployment wall, The Playpen, Lewis Carroll Wall, Tetas De Cabre (aka goat tits).

Warning:

This area is still under development and trails are still being established and improved. This also means that routes may still need to be cleaned of dirt, dust, and most importantly loose rocks. This shouldn't be and issue but be safe - bring a helmet and pay attention.
Also if you find fixed gear (ropes, quickdraws, biners) it is probably not booty and was left for a reason.

There are rattlesnakes here. On average they are only a couple feet long and are of the great basin variety. Usually they are very docile and sometimes may not even rattle at you as you pass them by. They haven't (and shouldn't) be a problem just pay attention as you walk and get into your pack. Usually when approached they will slither into a crack or under a rock and hide. Also in the area of snakes is the king snake which is commonly mistaken for the poisonous coral snake. King snakes are constrictors and coinidently eat rattlesnakes.

Getting There

From St. George head north on SR 18 till you hit the Pine Valley turnoff a few miles outside of Veyo. Head east towards pine valley. Park 5.8 miles up the road at a unmarked road post on the right hand side of the road. Look for rock cairns on the right hand side that mark a faint trail. Follow the trail south to the cliff line and the walk down. Approach time from here is approx. 10 minutes.

For out-of-towners: The turn off of Hwy 18 on Pine Valley highway is past Veyo. After turning off of Hwy 18 I went 5.6 miles (on my odometer) to the post and cairned trail - if you go to far you pass a white railing on the right side of the road and you can see the rocks down below. There is a turn around point 6.0 miles with a large Pine Valley sign.

There are also a few routes with anchors that can be accessed from the top of the cliff line, as well as a dedicated rap anchor. There isn't a defined trail to the rap station yet but the gps coordinates are 37 24.494 N 113 32.187 W.

53 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Pine Valley

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 24
Lifesaver 360
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 21
Jungle Bungle
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 17
Flim Flam
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 8
Bangarang
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 4
Sewit or Blowit
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 18
Derecho del Colibrí
Sport
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 6
Sawatdee
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 12
Down The Rabbit Hole
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 12
Organic Orgasm
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 6
Welcome to Unemployment
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 8
Red Queen
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 6
The Eriksen Affair
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 5
Meet Your Maker
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 11
Coloring Outside the Lines
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Lifesaver 360 Tetas De Cabre
 24
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Jungle Bungle Playpen
 21
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Flim Flam Tetas De Cabre
 17
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Bangarang Lewis Carroll Wall
 8
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Sewit or Blowit Tetas De Cabre
 4
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Derecho del Colibrí Tetas De Cabre
 18
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Sawatdee Lewis Carroll Wall
 6
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Down The Rabbit Hole Unemployment wall
 12
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Organic Orgasm Hero Wall
 12
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Welcome to Unemployment Unemployment wall
 6
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Red Queen Lewis Carroll Wall
 8
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
The Eriksen Affair Tetas De Cabre
 6
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Meet Your Maker Tetas De Cabre
 5
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Coloring Outside the Lines Tetas De Cabre
 11
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
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