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Routes in Lewis Carroll Wall

Bandersnatcher T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Bangarang T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fingering the PV T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Giant Meat Plow S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Infernal Ecstasy S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Pulgar del Diablo S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Pulgar del Diablo Variation S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Red Queen S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Sawatdee S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Marius vanderMerwe & Marc Hansen
Page Views: 746 total, 10/month
Shared By: Marius vanderMerwe on Aug 2, 2011
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

Starts on blocky but vertical 5.10sh terrain that leads to a prominent ramp about halfway up the route. Rest up and head out for the obvious sharp red arete. The arete is the 5.11 section of the climb so keep on moving and avoid the pump!

Note: It is possible to avoid the crux move at the bottom of the red arete by going left into the chimney/open book for a move or two before traversing out right to the arete. This variant drops the grade to perhaps an 11a.

Location

To the immediate right of a prominent roof (with a bolted project running through it).

Protection

Around 10 bolts to the 2 bolt anchors.

Photos

Marius vanderMerwe
Saint George, UT
 
Marius vanderMerwe   Saint George, UT
 
Glad you liked it. Thanks for introducing me to the area. It is going to be my favorite climbing spot in the summer. Jan 12, 2012
skeers
  5.11c
skeers  
  5.11c
Hats off to you Marius, what an amazing line. I finally had the chance to get on this route, and it was AWESOME. Great movement combined with arete climbing. This is classic no doubt. Jan 11, 2012