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Areas in Black Rocks

Black Rocks Boulders 0 / 0 / 0 / 14 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 14
Shady Side 3 / 26 / 7 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 29
Shady Side West 0 / 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5
Sunny Side 9 / 22 / 7 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 34

Description

These short, black, basalt walls are located very close to town. A warm micro environment on otherwise cold, sunny, winter days, the area is quite popular.

The area was developed with bolted sport lines in the mid-nineties by Tupper and Goss, but trad lines were done as early as the late eighties by Olvesky.

The routes are easily divided into a southeast-facing Sunny Side and a northwest-facing Shady Side.

The majority of the routes on the Sunny Side are in the 5.8 to 5.10 range. The Shady Side routes range from 5.8 to 5.13, with the largest number in the 5.10 range.

This is a great place after a big rain when all of the area's sandstone is wet, and when it is cold out.
Closed March 15 through June 30 Details

Getting There

From downtown Saint George, drive north on Bluff Street (don't turn left towards Santa Clara). Drive approximately 1.5 miles past the turn to Snow Canyon State Park, passing the parking area for the Chuckawalla trailhead on the left.

Park here and walk north on the bike trail a hundred feet or so, then branch left onto the canyon trail. The trail crosses a fence with a tortoise barrier.

82 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Black Rocks

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Objective Reality
Trad, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
The Fella's
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Moses Had a Stick Clip
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Welcome to Black Rocks
Sport
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Extinction
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Galactic Cannibalism
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Lunar Orbit
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
The Beginning
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Oh My Hell
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
What Was I Thinking
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Event Horizon
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Black Friday
Sport
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Gravitational Attraction
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Flying off the Handle
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Slap Happy
Sport
Objective Reality Sunny Side 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c Trad, TR
The Fella's Shady Side 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 Sport
Moses Had a Stick Clip Sunny Side 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Welcome to Black Rocks Shady Side 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Extinction Shady Side 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Sport
Galactic Cannibalism Sunny Side 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Lunar Orbit Sunny Side 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
The Beginning Shady Side 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Oh My Hell Sunny Side 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
What Was I Thinking Shady Side 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Event Horizon Shady Side 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Black Friday Sunny Side 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Gravitational Attraction Sunny Side 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Flying off the Handle Shady Side 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Slap Happy Shady Side 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
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J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
Awesome area! The closest thing to an outdoor gym with nearly all day access. My wife and I were climbing until almost noon two weeks ago in August and were still in the shade. The only thing that is difficult about it sometimes is distinguishing which route is what as routes are very near to each other in places. Aug 24, 2017
Alex Temus
Small Town, USA
Alex Temus   Small Town, USA
You don't see many places like this with so many different routes every few feet on both sides of the canyon, it kinda feels like nature's version of a climbing gym! Very easily accessible sport and trad routes, seems like they would be easy to top rope as well. Only wish the walls were taller. Feb 21, 2017
Does anyone know anything regarding the boulders here at Black Rocks? Has anyone established/named anything, has anyone ever published anything, etc.? Granted, the boulders here are pretty few and far between, and the quality/quantity of lines certainly doesn't come close to Moe's or other areas nearby, but the fact that you can climb here the day after a good rain is enough for me to go play around on them. I realize that Black Rocks is a nature reserve and desert tortoise sanctuary, so minimal/no impact to landings is a given. Most boulders were just off the main trail or in the wash itself, so again, minimal/no impact. I just have a hard time believing that with how long climbers have been coming here that nobody has put anything up. Some of the lower holds on a few of the boulders were chalked up, seemingly played on, but most of the lines and holds were pretty dirty. However, after a little bit of cleaning (which is pretty easy with this tough basalt), some pretty rad lines went down. Any info would be great before I go posting stuff on here.
BR Feb 21, 2017


Can any one identify this climb? I have dug through all the Black Rock climbs and can't seem to identify it. Sep 4, 2015
Just a word about climbing etiquette: if draws are left up on a climb, they haven't been abandoned, and it does not mean you are entitled to take them. I came back the next day and my draws had been taken off 'Flying off the Handle.' I walked over to the sunny side and asked a group, and they immediately gave them back and said I shouldn't leave my draws in such a popular area. I know you run the risk of getting draws stolen when you leave them up, (in this case it was overnight) but if you take them, it is still stealing. Feel free to use them, but don't steal them. Fun climb! Great work to the gumbie who made it to the top in efforts of stealing on thanksgiving day! Nov 22, 2012
Chris Celani
Ivins, Utah
Chris Celani   Ivins, Utah
Best bet is to use a four foot sling, but you may still get a little rope ware do to some of the angles. Jul 25, 2012
Matthew Oliver
Salt Lake City
Matthew Oliver   Salt Lake City
I have not seen anyone mention that this crag is closed from mid March to June 30th every year due to desert wildlife conservation (Desert Tortoise). If you are planning a trip in the spring, count Black Rocks out. Feb 29, 2012
Fett  
I find it strange that people complain about bolted cracks at Crawdad but not here. Seems like the same set up as Crawdad except the fact that you have to pay to climb in Crawdad. Both places are still fun to climb, love the sic nar pockets. Nov 8, 2009
I was curious, alot of these routes need slings to toprope. Does anyone know how long the slings need to be?

I was planning a road trip to visit some relatives in st. george and wanted to take some of them climbing while I was there. Nov 19, 2008
Matt McMurray
Castle Rock, CO
Matt McMurray   Castle Rock, CO
Is it possible to divide this area into the sunny side and shady side, and then group the routes accordingly? It would make it a lot easier for users to plan a trip (rather than looking at every route to determine where it is).

I sure wish these cliffs were taller...

MM Jan 18, 2007

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