Type: Sport
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,547 total · 21/month
Shared By: hEatchel on Mar 22, 2009
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


27 Opinions

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Access Issue: Closed March 15 through June 30 Details

Description

Amazing basalt climbing through very technical crimps pockets slopers and side pulls. Great crimper crux to chains!

Location

Shady side on big obvious overhanging rock. Most aesthetic line on the cliff

Protection

QD's

Photos

Gaar
Springdale / Zion UT / Moab
5.12-
Gaar   Springdale / Zion UT / Moab
5.12-
5.12a not 12b Waist cliping the 4th bolt is the easiest opition Mar 29, 2009
Bad Sock Puppet
  5.12b
Bad Sock Puppet  
  5.12b
Solid .12b IMO, The start is a little awkward and tricky but you soon get to easier climbing. Definitely clip the fourth bolt at your waist. Rest up at the large shelf 2/3 way up. The crux is the really small but positive crimp as you go for the chains and then throwing for a slopey hold. If your feet cut here then good luck. Clean fall zone. Nov 27, 2009
Ryan M Taylor
Orem Ut
 
Ryan M Taylor   Orem Ut
 
I would have to say this is a solid 12.b and a fun climb with a sweet end that if you mess up on you are in for a good fall! Mar 22, 2012
Spencer Weiler
Salt Lake city
 
Spencer Weiler   Salt Lake city
 
My china isn't as polished as the opening holds. Makes chuckawalla seem like fresh granite. Sep 2, 2014
jeffozozo
santa clara, utah
  5.12b
jeffozozo   santa clara, utah
  5.12b
The "fourth" bolt looks like it is out of line, and off to the left of this route. It is probably the first bolt on "jumping to conclusions" as it breaks left. However, if you skip this bolt, it is a long run-out to the next one (sock puppet says to clip the 'fourth' bolt at your hip and I assume he means this one.) It looks like you could deck if you came off trying to clip it. I'd say, clip the slightly out of line bolt with a longer draw to make it a little safer. Feb 18, 2016
lech
  5.12b
lech  
  5.12b
Harder climbing at the bottom (a little slick and balancy). Big holds in the middle. Finish on crimpy pockets. Just over the lip at the top between the two chains is a good hold with a bomber hold left and above the chains just in case you get a bit pumped. Feb 22, 2016