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Routes in Shady Side

5 AM Lookouts, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Beginning, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Critical Mass S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Dark Energy S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Entropy S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Event Horizon S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Extinction S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
F.Y.M. S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fella's, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Flirting With Mutants S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Flying off the Handle S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Hippy's Wrath S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Indifference S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Jumping to Conclusions S,TR 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Mission Impossible S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Missionary Position S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
New Age Disciples S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Nuetrino Drizzle S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Petrophyte T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Polluting the Gene Pool S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Run Bunny, Run S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
S.T.D. S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Slap Happy S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Stem From Heck, The T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Vacuum Genesis S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Welcome to Black Rocks S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
What Was I Thinking S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Windmill S,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Your Problem S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
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Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: J. Edie, J. Howard
Page Views: 817 total · 8/month
Shared By: grk10vq on Feb 2, 2010
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Closed March 15 through June 30 Details

Description

A mild start leads to a steep, sequential, and thin crux. Touchy climbing past a few more bolts busts over a small lip to the anchors.

Nice edges and a series of big flakes are the lure of this climb.
Aesthetic and fun.

Location

Located directly in the middle of the Black Rock's Shady Side, The Beginning sits isolated between Atlantis and Your Problem.

Protection

Five bolts and a rap anchor.

Photos

lech
  5.10c
lech  
  5.10c
High feet are the key. Just keep moving and better holds will appear. Feb 22, 2016
Taylor Gemperline
St. Louis
  5.10c/d
Taylor Gemperline   St. Louis
  5.10c/d
This route was incredibly slick when I climbed it. For that reason I think it is harder than 10b. Get it down and it is an awesome climb though Aug 13, 2016
Tom V
Aspen, CO
Tom V   Aspen, CO
I started left of the bolt line and was anything but mild! Maybe I just missed something big but it was a pretty intense left side pull to a right pocket up pretty high then on to a few dime edges for feet in the middle then easier climbing past the lip. I'd give it 11 plus. Staying right made it easier. Oct 27, 2016
SColemere  
 
I was started the offwidth just to the right on this route and this block shifted and almost crushed me. We tried for a few hours to remove it from the wall but was unsuccessful. It could come loose at any time, do not use this block.
Jan 14, 2017

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