Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Shady Side

Missionary Position S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
5 AM Lookouts, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Beginning , The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Critical Mass S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Dark Energy S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Entropy S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Event Horizon S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Extinction S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
F.Y.M. S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fella's, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Flirting With Mutants S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Flying off the Handle S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Hippy's Wrath S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Indifference S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Jumping to Conclusions S,TR 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Mission Impossible S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
New Age Disciples S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Nuetrino Drizzle S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Petrophyte T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Polluting the Gene Pool S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Run Bunny, Run S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
S.T.D. S,TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Slap Happy S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Stem From Heck, The T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Vacuum Genesis S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Welcome to Black Rocks S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
What Was I Thinking S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Windmill T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Your Problem S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: M. Nad, J. Nad
Page Views: 1,006 total, 11/month
Shared By: Jeremy Steck on Mar 8, 2010
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


9 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Closed March 15 through June 30 Details

Description

Start by laybacking to reach out left to reach the beginning of the arete. Crux is gaining the 3rd bolt. Very balancy. Blowing the moves to reach the 3rd bolt could result in a crappy awkward fall. Nice bouldery moves at the beginning lead to fun face climbing. This route is easily top roped by climbing Flirting with the Mutants, 5.11b to the right.

Location

Locate the obvious arete about 20 feet to the right of Flying off the Handle, 5.12b.

Protection

4 bolts, shuts.

Photos

Jeremy Steck
Salt Lake City, UT
 
Jeremy Steck   Salt Lake City, UT
 
The large block on the edge of the arete above the 4th bolt is going to come off sooner or later. I've been on this route a few time over the years and it felt solid. As of 11/15, this thing is moving. Pretty scary since you grab it, yard outward on it, and then mantle on top of it! You can easily avoid it by just finishing to the right on Flirting with Mutants in which case you only need to stand on the block to gain the anchors. Nov 10, 2015
Spencer Weiler
Salt Lake city
 
Spencer Weiler   Salt Lake city
 
Classic guidebook blunder by Mr. Day. I found the intial moves getting my feet onto the giant slanting triangle hold while liebacking the jug sidepull and clipping bolt 2 to be easy enough, but failed to move any further up the arete without Old Bessie the cow yelling "barn door" causing me to cease upward progress. I guess I wasn't slapping happy enough. If one can acquire the small crimp hole 4 feet higher the rest is in the bag pending no unfortunate beta botching. Bouldery to balancy. Need to work on my balance beam i guess. Sep 2, 2014
Nelson Day
Joshua Tree, CA
  5.12c
Nelson Day   Joshua Tree, CA
  5.12c
Haha ok. Well I really enjoyed this route. It's a good relief from classic "crimp and pimp" style harder routes. Strong and interesting beta with a good variety of moves. Jul 9, 2013
grk10vq    
oh yeah? and who can forget the ever classic Ooh my Hell? Jul 8, 2013
Perin Blanchard
Orem, UT
Perin Blanchard   Orem, UT  
That can't be right...after all there's Pflirting With Mutants, correct? Jul 8, 2013
grk10vq    
the route is callled Slap Happy, it is letter O. "numerically" in the guidebook. Jul 8, 2013
Nelson Day
Joshua Tree, CA
  5.12c
Nelson Day   Joshua Tree, CA
  5.12c
Called O Slap Happy in the guide book Jul 8, 2013