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Routes in Shady Side

Missionary Position S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
5 AM Lookouts, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Beginning , The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Critical Mass S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Dark Energy S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Entropy S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Event Horizon S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Extinction S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
F.Y.M. S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fella's, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Flirting With Mutants S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Flying off the Handle S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Hippy's Wrath S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Indifference S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Jumping to Conclusions S,TR 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Mission Impossible S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
New Age Disciples S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Nuetrino Drizzle S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Petrophyte T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Polluting the Gene Pool S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Run Bunny, Run S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
S.T.D. S,TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Slap Happy S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Stem From Heck, The T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Vacuum Genesis S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Welcome to Black Rocks S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
What Was I Thinking S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Windmill T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Your Problem S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Type: Sport, TR, 35 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 864 total, 7/month
Shared By: Ryan Brough on Mar 13, 2007
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Closed March 15 through June 30 Details

Description

Really easy climbing leads to a generous rest ledge. This is trad climbing for people on a 6 quickdraw budget. This route doesn't need bolts at all. The crack in the corner hosts ample protection opportunities and wrist jams for rests (like you need to rest on a 35 foot climb). I suppose this was given a 5.9 rating for the layaways on the arete before the anchors. My guess is that this was intended to be a "face only" climb, whatever that is supposed to mean. But I digress, this is good for a warm up and fun for the family to toprope.

Location

Shady side of the canyon, three routes to the right of Run Bunny, Run. Starts in a corner. Walk off or rappel from the anchors.

Protection

4 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor.

Photos

jeffozozo
santa clara, utah
  5.9
jeffozozo   santa clara, utah
  5.9
The top section above the ledge has some height dependent moves. My 5'1" partner had real trouble making the final moves to the anchors. If you climb the face (i.e. didn't use any of the holds in the crack) it is much harder. Aug 20, 2014